Germantas

I found lot of information about pump unite O rings,but not gears selector. P.S. Finally found it in Wiki. Thanks

I can't find gears selector O rings measurements or parts numbers. Can someone have this information or show where i can find it. Thank you

I get offer for 115eur this one. Now question, repair old one or buy this one. I bought from him pump unite and it works well. https://ebay.us/m/iDL5Hl

Good morning, friends! Yesterday I removed the gear actuator. From the outside it looks fine, just a bit dirty. One of the pipes (the upper one) is moving/loose in its place, while the other one sits more firmly. Is that normal, or is it a problem? Now that I have the actuator in my hands, I’m thinking about what to do. To start disassembling it, I’d need spare parts like O-rings, etc. Unfortunately, there are no complete kits available, so I’d have to search and buy everything one by one. I can buy another actuator in fully working condition for €120–150, but it was removed from a Lupo. I read somewhere that they are the same, only the high-pressure pipes are a different length. Is that true?

Thank you Mankmil! Will start with gears actuator

Ok, this it is gaskets. Gaskets in pump unite, gaskets in gear selector? There is no kits to care all all unites. My pump is from another car and it not runned with ATF oil. Left clutch actuator and gears selector. You mean i need those two parts?

Today i opened drivers door and pump doesn't start. Looks like it still have a good pressure from yesterday. Ignition ON,pump starts for maybe 15 sek and then it stopt. I hear at same time gear changed from N( car was in N from yesterday) to 1 gear.Sounds promising. Then i pushed brakes and old history came back. Pump starts immediately and won't stop. Car engine started in S, don't know when, gut gear now is in N and i can't engage to D or R. I stoped engine,switchen off and on ignition and pump now running all the time without a Stop. VCDS screenshots: Nr.1 when ignition was on, Nr.2. when Ignition, Nr. 3 Engine running.

I checked O rings in old pump unite, they looks OK. I'm just not undertand why system was filed with not correct oil. There is no visible lekage, and system was not only refiled with ATF but there was no evidens off egsisting Green oil in a system. Will chech gearboz bults, maybe gearbox was removed. Car i bought from ownes son, and he don't know what it was with it.

Yes, previous owner instead of green filed system with ATF. I replaced with correct oil and replaced pump unite. There is no visible leakage of oil and just need to guess that there is no internal leakage. Mankmil wrote many interesting things what i need to check. I just confirm, when i open a driver doors pump working about 15 sek then stops. When Ignition ON it almost never stop. I newer checked what is pressure in a hydraulic system because didn't know that possibility to do in VCDS. Today first i will do this. I don't think a clutch have mechanical problem, there was no strange sound or something strange from the clutch. Just after last test drive next day car won't to drive.

Lupo 3L maybe you missed my previous comments. I have 3 pcs. pressure accumulators. One is new Febi with Mankmill adaptor (currently it is installed on a car). Another one is original with confirmed 4 gears changing before pump starts. Last was with a car when i bought and i don't know his condition. Just one very important moment what I missed when I too much concentrated on a clutch system. Car is always in neutral! Gears are not changing when I move to D or R. On the video you can see VCDS showing "selected gear is LG 3-4” and doesn’t change. Maybe clutch is working, just problem in a hydraulic system because is not creating working pressure? If YES, what part I need to change, clutch valve? What tests I need to do to recognize a problem.

No, previous owner had this car only one year, and drive 5000km. That way i need to investigate or guess what i need to do. Now ii looks like tomorrow after work i need to put a car on thet lift and dismount a gearbox. I already contacted Mankmil ,but looks and ask about how to exchange old valvo to new one. Waiting answer

Little of history: A2 is 2005 with milage 240 000km. I bought it two weeks ago. Previous owner told that car drive good,but when engine is warn,it won't start. This is indication of worn injectors gaskets and i replaced it. Can drives well, gears is changing smoothly. I never had before this car and can't compare with another. It was two problem left. One is turbo vastgate accurator not working and gear box hidtaulic pump starting after first gear change. When i checked hydraulic system, recognize that instead of green oil it was filet with red ATF. Don't know why. There was visibal leakage. I bought new Febi accumulator and adapter for it. Replaced correct oil and installed Febi. Did all adaptations. Car car drive,but pump still working almost constantly. I bought nother pump with confirmed working ( 4 gears change) original accumutor,but results is the same. Now after last test drive i got this situation where i explained early and in video

Now looked to clutch leaver. Clutch cylinder moving it just les ten 10mm. I tried to puch it with bid metal stick, but it can't move . If it stuck,it stuck in very strange position. Maybe pump is running almost without a stop to trying create a pressure to move a leaver. My question is: how hard is to move clutch leaver to open a clutch? I think,a problem is with mechanical clutch parts and to be shure i need remove gearbox.

I will happy to do this, but i'm not German and don't know how are people reacts when i writing in not forum native language. I can use a google translate, but can't be shure if it translate correctly

I know how to do this. I did it more than 10 times. Will do this tomorrow one more time. Funny, i learned a German in school. But it was 30 year ago. And if you not using it in your life, you forgetting it. I have 5 pcs. Audi A2. Two is 1.4i,two is BCB( did swap). I decided to buy 1.2tdi and didn't imagine that it will be so complicated:)

Yes,i see clutch is closing some times. But you are right, maybe is some mechanical problem and is stuck and some time just release. Now is dark, will try to do the same test, but will try to move by hand a clutch lever. And, if i have this situation, it's mean clutch leaver need to be pulled ans stuck,but clutch valve cable need to be pulled off?

I already contacted Mankmil for new clutch valve,and he wrote that it need to be changed by age and millage. But want to understand if it helps

You are totally right! Spend lot of time to read English and German forum about gearbox problems and solutions. Wrote to this forum because i'm confused and can't find a answer what is it. For example, yesterday i just started engine and test drive s car without a problem. Just pump was running constantly. Then i decided to drive a car to a garage and got this problem some was from las weekend when i change accumulator tank ang fluid. From my video you see, when car is in D snd brake is released clutch specific values is moving up and down, but actual is always showing 99.6 %, it's mean clutch is open. Why...?

"So first - why is the control unit wanting to close the clutch?" Gearbox in D and no brakes. Clutch need to be closed and car need to drive. This is my understanding. Sorry for video,i not made it to show all. But mostly i will show that car engine starts in S or N, but when switching to D or R clutch still open and car can not drive. And pump os constantly running.

I made a video where i showing what is happening with a gearbox:

VCDS show 99.6% and voltage is if i remember correctly 3.85v. I did video when engine is running, and gear shifter is in D. When I am starting a car in S position, then go to N and D, engine just revving buy car not driving (my video did in this stage). But, when starting engine in N and then to D, not always but often, clutch is disengaging, and I can drive. I didn't check how is when engine not runs. Will do it today. What more i can try or read with VCDS to be shure there is a problem?

Hydraulic fluid I changed to new and level is correct. When I open a door ,pump is running for maybe 30 sec, then stops until I start engine. Then will run again 30sec. Will stay until press a brake or trying to change a gear. When test run a car, I hear that pump is run constantly, because clutch is engaging and disengaging and gears is changing. Sounds like accumulator tank is bad, but it is totally new and even tried with use one who works perfectly on another car.

Sorry that I am writing in English. Like all of you my Audi a2 1.2 tdi have a problem with gears shifting. I spend a lot of time to read all problem related forums but didn’t find solution. My A2 hydraulic pump was running all the time, and I decided to change an accumulator tank. I bought new one Febi (with adaptor) and use one with a pump from my friend (5-6 gear changes before starts pump). Clutch disengaged at 1.84v and engaging 3.85. Did basics adjustments. Problem: pump is running constantly when engine is on. Car starts in S and N but won’t run. When I change to D or R car engine is revving but not drive because clutch is ON. VCDS group 3 showing Clutch position (Actual) 99.6% and Clutch position (specified) just running in a circle from 2% to 75% and back. Some time, when I start a car in N and then to D is disengage clutch and it drives and changes gears, but pump is running constantly. There is no leakage in a system. I on the way to buy a new clutch cylinder, but not sure it will help, and is not so cheap just to buy it and try. Can someone have advice? There is video from VCDS: