Anelkka

Interesting. Maybe next time when assembling inner manifold I will check with feeler gauge is it fully seated. I did check axial clearance when manifold was out. I noticed that if shaft (actuator side) is pushed little bit, flaps will stick to other side. Thats why I did remove some aluminium from manifold itself. Now there should be enought clearance.

Thank you for replying. Yes I did use some drill to hold flaps into its frame. Also I did verify when manifold is tightenet that actuator arm is moving still. Every time when I have refitted everything and start car, I manage to make adaptation succesfully once. After couple throttle chirps I can see from VCDS that ADP. OK changes to ERROR and actuator arm is stuck. The actuator itself holds vacuum, so I dont think its the problem. If the sealing from injectors is not correct I would assume that it leaks fuel as well?

Saga continues. I did remove some material from manifold for the flaps just a bit to make sure they dont stick. However it didn't help, flaps gets stuck still after starting car. I am now pretty sure that problem is in the head. If I manage to remove flaps completely, does ECU understand that pontentiometer's shaft is moving over its limits? What I did try out when manifold was out from head and plugged potentiometer connector, is that VCDS showed values from 0% to 100% but at very end of movement values doesn't change. I would guess that it dont make any error codes if shaft moves freely and adaptation is succesfully made.

Your repair looks much more cleaner than mine haha. Thanks for pictures!

Thanks for information. I have now repaired actuator's arm again, lets see how it works out. Okay, so its normal that when manifold is installed values don't reach 100% and 0%. I will link couple images and a video how arm is repaired with M6 bolt and some epoxy. https://drive.google.com/file/d/11rXeL2pODp9RlcB_mlts3OUzTH__s1OA/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/13hth3PiKGYKag0QL7G9bh4ca_yxx0WD5/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BrD1taPWYoLD8WVySsKlFAR7PzFzZkx6/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BtcMaPD92nkLzov_8ZqbKjtkNO4i8gwO/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HscT4hautTqQjIEa8CV0OmzHvnc8AZZd/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_qi3qBpUFYec2xJUdIP6E6asB9kWFRD6/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q6SeNCZ_Rg8M0O7NFwGcAEJ7wmy-ANyA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UypBw8MqOJZCxkJzlNpbulJDhN6YaH67/view?usp=sharing

Inner manifold is now disassembled again. Seems like my repaired actuator's arm got broken again from gluing. I made it a bit too thick and maybe that caused it to broke. I took some video how flaps are moving when using vacuum. Is it normal that values from VCDS are about ≈ 10% when flaps are open and ≈ 90% when closed ? Does it effect when doing adaptation via channel 142? If somebody has unbroken or repaired actuator laying on the shelf, I am interested! I also did tried to remove bolts that are connecting flaps but they seemed to be really tight so I did leave as they are.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/disconnect-cowl-panel-grille-fresh-air-duct-without-removing-wiper-and-washer-jets-it’s-vital-to-remove-fresh-air-duct-to-get-access-to-back-side.36107/

Actually I discovered this same thing when manifold was at table. Good idea about grinding flaps little bit, I will sort out this one. Thank you for replying

Thanks for reply. I prefer to keep everything original so far. I will dismantle everything with thought maybe in couple weeks and I will update situation after that.

Hello everyone! I bought second A2 for me as a project. It is with FSI engine and it had some coolant leaks and manifold flaps were cooked from carbon debris. Coolant leaks are now sorted and manifold flaps cleaned. Problem with manifold flaps are still on going. When I did clean the flaps, they were moving nicely and free. After putting everything back together, starting car and successfully done adaptation via VCDS from group 142 everything seems to OK but not really. Couple throttle revs and I found out that flaps are stuck again. I did undo vacuum hose from actuator and actuator arm is completely stuck. Any ideas what could be the reason before I will dismantle again?

Looking for this part for my TDI75. Currently out of stock from dealer, 6N0145812A

Hello, I am looking for this plastic fuel filter housing. Just found out that mine housing's draing plug got snapped. Part number is: 8Z0 127 401B BR, Antti