Redcreek

Benutzer LAU hat sein "Magic" gemacht und jetzt lauft mein Kugel weiter ohne KSG "Tourettes"! Trotzdem habe ich meine zweifeln gegen die elektrische Kontakte zwischen Tür und Karosserie, aber alle 4 (ohne Heck) sind jetzt gereinigt und eingefettet. Wird im zukunft 1 mal per Jahr nochmals gemacht (unser Klima ist hart am Autos). Es gibt bei dieses Forum wirklich richtige "Professors" das kann alles über diese kleine Autos und ich bin ehrlich beeindruckt von viele von sie. Ein herzlichen Dank von Nordschwedens! /Fredrik

http://www.audi-a2club.de/forum/showthread.php?p=791347&langid=1 This is an exact copy of my problems. Lau, I'll send you a private message. I bought the engine from a good guy at this forum, with help from A2-D2, so I might as well get help repairing my KSG thru the forum as well :-)

I've cleaned and greased all the connectors between body and doors. I didn't remove the battery terminal during the process, and I could hear the KSG making "clicking" sounds, even when all connectors was removed (apart from fuel door and rear trunk lid). If I close all doors and lock the car, everything is fine. When I open the door (remember, I don't have a remote), it starts sending signals to all 4 doors making noise. However, the doors doesn't seem to lock/unlock, just making noise. The fuel door switch stays illuminated at all times, but the interior light goes off (blinks) every time the KSG sends the signal. The first run with VCDS showed some 13 error codes (I guess because I didn't remove the battery while removing the contacts). After a DTC clean, there are no codes left, but the locks are still playing. The car is from 2000, and I guess an early model (WAUZZZ8ZZ1N005699). Cann I fit a KSG from a different car and test it, or does it require coding/adaption? The A2 is kinda exotic up here, is the identical KSG fitted in any other VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat models? I'll check up on that microcontroller fault you mentioned tonight. Cheers from a warm (just -5 tonight) Umea.

Alst beschreiben habe ich... Sorry, too difficult (for me) in German: The central locking in my car has gone crazy (Ohne Funk, nur Schlüssel) when we finally got proper winter here where I live, with temperatures below -15. The system sounds sometimes like a machine gun when driving, locking/unlockig several times a second. The "Innenraum Beleuchtung" flickers like mad (when on). After searching this, and the UK forum (and after taking apart the drivers door with no success), I focused on the connectors between doors and body. To my great surprise these connectors are unsealed (the rubber doesn't work as a good seal) and they where all in very bad state. I won't be able to fix this without soldering the cables and removing the connector, or fitting a better connector. Has anyone done this before and can anyone share some info on it? This design is not very good where I live, and I doubt it works very well in northern Germany as well. Any answers much apreciated, Deutsch oder English ist egal. MFG Fredrik

Obwohl schwierig zu wechseln, ein neue G250 hat alles gelöst! Jetzt gibt's Serolenkung wenn's gebraucht wird, Gereuch ist weg, keine "blinkende beleuchtung" und keine Fehlercodes mehr. Vielen Dank zu alle Mitgliedern im Forum und alle gute Tips! Beim wechsel des G250 muss Radschale weg und am bestens ein kleines 1/4" Ratsche mit 50mm Verlängerung + Torx25 benutzt sein. Kontakt am Pumpe ist etwas schwierig zum löschen, aber mit wille und ein kleine Schraubdreher geht es. MFG Fredrik

Hi I just removed the sensor (but not from the pump). The plastic Unterschutz have to be removed, and the LH side wheel, but nothing else, unless the sensor is to be replaced that is... I used a T25 bit, a short extension and a small 1/4" ratchet. It was easy compared to the Termostat change I'll do on a friends A6 2,4q -00 in a couple of weeks... :-). The sensor looked like new inside, but I'll go ahead and replace it since I have these problems. It's not nice to drive when the servo is "Intermittent", and I have 15km of a curvy road to work as well. Thanks for the great help guys!

Ich habe den andere Beitrag 5min zu spät gesehen. Am Dienstag bestelle ich einen G250 .

Ich habe einige Minuten her ein langes Thema über meine Servolenkungsprobleme geschrieben, und dienstag bestelle ich ein G250 Geber! Weitere Infos: Hinweis vom Moderator URL entfernt, Urheberrechtsverletzung, SSP240 Teil 2 Vielen Dank!

Hi I recently bought a 2001 1,4Benz. and it's been a really great car to drive to work. The car was involved in an accident before I bought it where it was hit by a snow plow at the front left corner. This caused damages to the left headlight (top plastic bracket broken) and the "Aggregateträger" (or what the name is for the A2). The problem is that the LH light is leaking in water. This shows as drops on the clear plastic and is not something TÜV in Sweden approves. Luckily the headlight is very easy to remove and dry out with a hairdryer . I can't see the damage and some weeks ago I decided to check it so I: Removed the headlight and drilled a hole in the lid where I stuck a rubber hose. The hose was attached to my compressor and I immersed the whole lamp in a bucket of water. I could see bubbles coming from the lid, but also from a grey plastic "Ventile" close to the corner of the lamp. Nothing else was leaking . Does anyone have any ideas on how to tackle this problem? I could improve the seal (looks like new) around the lid, and also close the vent hole (which is probably there for a reason), but the fault must really be someplace else. And yes, I remembered to close the hole with some "Chemical metal" afterwords :-). Cheers Fredrik

Hello everyone and happy new year to you! The Servopumpe in my 2001 1,4benz. seems to live its own life. If I leave the car standing still on idle, the pump can start and stop at least once every second or so, and it keeps doing this without me moving the steering wheel. It's a powerful motor and it uses enough current to cause all interior lights to flicker. It's a pain to drive in the dark as well since the flickering also affects the headlights (a lot). I've also had the odd engine stall, but so far it's been enough just to restart it. Almost every week it also shows the error code for the steering in the display. What I've done so far: - Replaced the engine last spring so the Massepunkt im Motorraum is OK . - Replaced the Generator a month ago due to bearing noise. - Checked pump fluid level and fluid quality (seems OK). - Checked electric connectors on the pump- looks like new. - Checked main earth connection in rear seat footwell (Längsträger). - Checked for fault codes with VCDS - seems to be connection problems and various systems not responding (intermittent). - Checked steering angle readout with VCDS and the signal seems stabile at least. - A local garage tested the battery and (although old) it seems OK. I think the problems are related to electric feed to the pump, possibly due to a earth connection problem. This seems to affect other engine related systems as well. Sometimes the pump doesn't work at all, but no error code is shown. I really don't know how to proceed and would really apreciate any kind of help/feedback. I speak German, but not on the level of writing very well. Feel free to answer in DE/EN. MFG Fredrik, Umea, Schweden

The TÜV procedure was not so easy as I thought... 1st time: Emission problems (CO & HC). I forgot to calibrate the throttle unit after cleaning it. Also forgot to calibrate the "new" EGR valve to the existing ECU..... Did all of that and replaced spark plugs and air filter (and tightened the plastic air inlet box to the throttle housing...). VCDS was full of interesting messages before calibration. 2nd time: Emission problems (CO & HC again!). A sad day in life! Plugged in the VCDS and found that the rear O2 sensor was giving a bad reading. No other VCDS messages. Replaced the O2 sensor. 3rd time: This time at the new Dekra station. It passed!!! The guy said the values was like it from a new car My tip to all of you: If you need to change the engine, make sure to unplug the rear O2-sensor wiring before you drop down the front part of the exhaust! If not, just replace it after because you will pull the cables and destroy it. I did it so you don't have to . Next time I will tell you how (not) to replace a front wheel bearing...

Hi A2-D2 I ended up checking it at a AC repair shop. The system just needed a thorough vacuum cleaning, and a refill (low on gas). I don't know why VCDS told me that the G263 was broken because It measured fine using your instructions above. Maybe this is a reason why so many people have a problem with the G263; the system need refilling? Anyhow, it was good to remove the Klima control unit and take it apart to remove years of Coca Cola spillage inside the buttons :-) Many thanks from a (nowadays) cool A2 owner!

Hi Ich habe ein 2001 1,4 Benziner mit unruhiger Servolenkung. Den Rest auf English: The servo pump seems to have a life of it's own, switching on/off once every other second, even if I don't touch the steering wheel. Every time this happens, the headlights flash quite a lot. Since we are heading for a long and dark winter up here, this is getting quite frustrating. It is also affecting the handling since it gives a very strange feeling when cornering with/without servo every other second. I tested it standing still as well. When I turn the steering wheel slowly, the servo switches on/off and it's impossible to turn the wheels smoothly. The G250 seems to give a good and linear reading, at least that's what it looked like using VCDS. Tomorrow, I'll jack up the car and check the electric connectors on the pump. The ground connections seems OK and I have some 14,2v from the alternator on idle. Does anyone know why this can be?

After replacing the AUA with a BBY in my -01, I can't get the AC to work. VCDS told me: Geber für Ausströmtemperatur Verdampfer Unterbrechung/Kurzschluss nach Plus. I replaced the G263 sensor but the error code is still there. The contact looks fine, also the cables, at least what I can see. If I remove the control unit, can I measure the ohm directly at the contact? Which pins goes to G263? I hope to have 2 sets of working G263, but can anyone tell me what the ohm/temp curve should be? English oder Deutsch ist egal, ich bin sehr dankvoll für Tips. G263 ausbau war einfacher als mein Motor austausch. Aber obwohl ich habe ein Freund mit VCDS komme ich leider nicht weiter min mein Klima. Grüsse Fredrik

Hallo Bin seit einige Monate ein frühes neues A2 besitzer von ein 1,4 Benziner. Det vordere Stosstange unterteil soll Schwarz sein aber der linke Ecke ist aber weiss geworden (durch ein früheres Unfall denke ich). Mit was kann ich es umlackieren? Mit 135.000Km ist das Auto sonst im OK Zustand aber... Neh, jetzt auf English: The front seats (no leather) is very dirty compared to the rest of the car and I would like to clean them. What is the best way to do this? Dieses Forum ist ein grosses Ursache warum ich habe den Auto gekauft. So ein Sammelung von Wissenschaft habe ich nie früher gesehen. Many thanks, Fredrik

I have done exactly this change just a couple of weeks ago. Bought a -04 BBY to put in my -01 A2 with AUA. Apart from the above I also changed: Complete intake manifold. My AUA fuel rail has pressure and return connection and the BBY only pressure (at least what I saw). Oil pressure sensor (in cylinder head) because of a different electric connector. There is also a valve (Lüfter?) fitted on top of the camshaft housing with a short hose that should go (I think) to the plastic intake tube. This is a mystery for me and I blocked it with a screw because my air intake has no connection for it. I don't know what it does and the car runs fine without this. There is no electric connection to it. Oil dipstick holder (orange plastic hinten Serviceklappe). The BBY came with dipstick and tube. The new (plastic) dipstick doesn't fit the old (steel wire) bby connection. Maybe only for the perfectionists...

I ended up buying the car. I thought I could find a cheap engine from a Polo or Fabia (same engine codes), but a later search at this forum proved otherwise. A good engine for a decent price was not to be found in Sweden so I bought it from a guy in Germany, thanks to persons at this forum. The car is a -00 1,4 AUA, but it's now fitted with a BBY from -04. The "new" engine sounds like... new :-) The old engine piston in #1 cylinder had severe damages and I think it's because the previous owner never installed a block heater. Our winters can be very cold (down to -30). I took it out for the first spin tonight and everything works just fine. I moved over the ignition system, oil pressure sensor, crank case ventilation (complete) and intake manifold (also complete) to do an easy installation (actually it's not an easy job). The coming Tuesday is TÜV and I think it will pass. Once done, I will use it for my everyday trip to work. Will put in a complete "DEFA" kit the coming autumn. This forum is a great source of knowledge and I'm most grateful for the help I got from some of you, especially A2-D2. Much apreciated. Many thanks, Fredrik, Northern Sweden

Ein Übersetzungsliste gabs´aber es hat nur bestätigt was du früher geschrieben hast. AUA und BBY ist mit ein Motorblock ersetzt, aber es gibt nicht andere Alternative von den VAG Gruppe. Ich will mein Kurbelwelle und Pleuellager nochmals überprüfen und falls alles kaputt ist komme ich gerne wieder wegen dein Motor. Ich habe kein Stress, mein -89 Golf Manhattan läuft stabil, obwohl es kein Tüv mehr schafft (Rost ohne Ende :-))

Das ist aber wirklich schade. Ich will Morgen mit den Audi Werkstatt sprechen und prüfe falls es gibt Möglichkeit ein Übersetzungsliste zwischen Block und Motorentype zu bekommen. "Wish me luck" :-) Falls nichts Anders geht, dann komme ich gerne wieder. Vielen Dank!

Hallo Alufreunde Ich brauche Ihnen Hilfe. Ich habe ein -00 1,4 AUA Benziner gekauft mit ein sehr hohes Lagergeräuch. Es hört aus wie ein kaputtes Pleuellager und ist lastabhängig (beim motorbremsen hört man nichts). Ich habe jetzt den Motor zerlegt aber kann aber keine Schaden finden!!! Hohes ölverbrauch siehe ich, aber keine Lagerschaden. Ich habe leider nicht den Öldruck abgemessen aber will trotzdem nich den Motor wieder benutzen (zu viel Arbeit aus und einbauen). Ein gebrauchtes AUA kostet sehr viel geld hier im Schweden. Gibt es Möglichkeit ein andere VAG Motor zu benutzen? Ich brauche nur das Block mit Zylinderkopf, alles anderes habe ich schon. Ich habe mein beste gemacht, hoffe das sie mein Deutsch verstehen kannst Grüsse von Umea, Nord Schweden

Nope, no warning lights this time. Last year I changed timing belt and then the MIL was lit. Reason was that the small upper timing belt tensioner had collapsed, the plastic cover on it was gone and the timing between inlet/outlet camshaft was out by 2 cogs. He was lucky that it didn't break! The inside of the timing belt housing looked like Chernobyl!

I know that English is understood by the absolute majority of Germans, but I hoped to get more answers by trying it in your language. I'm a avid poster/user of nordicaudi.com (Swedish site), but they have little to say about the A2. Some months ago I did service on the car. When I opened the oil plug I got maximum 1,5 liters of oil out. The oil was warm and showed no traces of particles. The car sounded very bad on idle (knocking) but I never went for a test run beforehand. I therefore thought it would be the hydraulic valve lifters that where faulty. I lifted off the camshaft housing and replaced the lifters I deemed bad (8 of them). The following test run was not nice - the knocking sound was still there. It was then I realized that the knocking was load dependant. Coasting causes no noice at all. The car consumes no oil but runs fairly bad, probably due to a very dirty throttle body (?). Where the oil went is a mystery. We had a fairly extreme winter last year and that may have caused the crank case ventilation to freeze (common where I live). Tonight I'll start demounting the gear box so I can remove the oil pan and have a look at the oil intake and the piston rod bearings. I had a BMW 2002 many years ago that had the same symptoms . Wish me luck... Regards Fredrik

Hallo Erste versuch, hoffe ich erfolgreich bin! Mein Freund hat einen 1,4 AUA Benziner von 2000 (13,7TKM) mit viel Motorgeräuch. Es ist unabhängig von Temperatur aber (leider) Lastabhängig. Bei Lehrgang und belastet kann man ein deutliches "Knacken" hören. Bei Motorenbremsen gibts kein geräuch. Ich denke das es ist entweder ein Pleuellager oder Kolben/Zylinderschaden. Mit was soll ich anfangen, Zylinderkopf ausbauen oder Getriebe/Ölwanne ausbauen? MFG Fredrik, Nord Schweden (Hoffe sie kann es überhaubt verstehen )