TitusM

Also I did a vcds log when I went to pick up the kids. Downhill and uphill. It was raining so I was a little slower than usual. The dashboard sais now 6. You can plot the csv log here (all are free): https://kiksu.net/vcds-graph/ or https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/vag-com-plotting-software.201161/ or https://www.logview.net/download-logview/ These were the values I could log now. If you have ideas I can log other groups. @Phoenix A2, @DerWeißeA2, @Romulus any ideeas what else to log? I own a vagcom so i can do readings whenever i have time. Back where i started....6.9Liters: The rubbing brake drum seems to not have had any influence (only better braking). The car does not feel underpowered like when a vacuum hose is out. If i disconnect the main vacuum line i can not go uphill with more than 50-60 km/h, I tested that. LOG-01-001-007-015.CSV

updates: I had a little time today (after I changed the engine mounts) and did some print screens: What I do not understand is no: 023. It looks like it is way off but I think it might be a vcds error. Group 13 goes to 0.4 on cylinder 3 sometimes but this is in limits. I am not sure how to read g72 and g62 (it looks ok). I changed g62 this summer. - Schwabe i do not see the g2 you mentioned.

No welding needed: You can use a 3mm thick sheet metal or washer to hold down the iron part. Use a washer under the sheet metal to keep things straight. 45mm distance between holes if you want to attach to the existing hole (as in picture) BUT is NOT needed. A wide thick washer on top is enough. (keep the 3mm thickness in mind) USE part no.: FEBI BILSTEIN 23882 price: i paid 73 euros from: VW Fox, VW Polo IV, SKODA Roomster, SKODA Fabia II, SKODA Fabia I, SEAT Ibiza IV, SEAT Cordoba III oem codes: 6Q0 199 167 CA SEAT 6Q0 199 167 CQ SEAT 6Q0 199 167 DH SEAT Admin: Unnütze Links entfernt. Zugangsdaten erforderlich. I forgot about Webasto and had to cut the excess metal :))). The original was not totally broken but there is a significant difference in engine start and vibrations. One more support to go. It arrives tomorrow. I will keep you posted. next one will be: LEMFOERDER 29978 01 - I will try to change the "rubber heart" of it. -> Pictures to come.

Swap the end and grind if needed. Code: LEMFOERDER 36324 01 price: I paid ~35 euro from: Audi A1, SEAT Ibiza IV,SEAT Ibiza V,Polo IV, Polo V oem codes: 6Q0 199 851 AA AUDI 6Q0 199 851 AC AUDI 6Q0 199 851 AP AUDI Admin: Unnütze Links entfernt. Zugangsdaten erforderlich.

This should be an interesting alternative:

At Idle engine in VAGCOM it says: 0.3/0.4 liters

personally i will try this: LEMFOERDER 36324 01 ->under FEBI BILSTEIN 23882 -> right side - needs cut and welding when you say this: The gearbox bearing can easily be replaced with the one from the Polo, something I have already done - which one do you mean? do you have a part number for us? google translate: wenn du das sagst: Das Getriebelager kann leicht durch das des Polo ersetzt werden, was ich bereits getan habe - welches meinst du? Haben Sie eine Teilenummer für uns? this also works on Any engine: 8Z0199555S

google translate: Was ist mit den anderen 2 Reittieren? irgendwelche Alternativen? Die 2 Reittiere kosten heute> 500 Euro --------------- what about the other 2 mounts? any alternatives? the 2 mounts cost today >500euros

Any ideea what other VCDS measurements to log? (I posted a log with boost levels - I also checked maf and injectors). They all seem fine except one interesting thing: When the car is in neutral and i read the boost levels(actual vs specified) it seems way off. When I drive the car this values are very close to each other. I am trying to rule out the boost part without dismantling it.

Update: I reopened the rear brake drums and one of the pistons was stuck. (I ordered new rear brake pads and everything) Managed to unlock the piston. The consumption is now "back" around 5.5 ->6 liters on the same route. So good catch with the brakes:) Thanks for the guys who suggested. That wheel was not stuck but the brake was rubbing. I still have to dig forward to find the big culprit.

When stationed there is no smoke. On hard acceleration there is very little black smoke. I will have to check the momentary consumption for flat road. Interesting idea. I must find a flat area:)...I am surrounded by hills. vcds: Block 13 is 0.20 maximum for one injector - very close to 0 most of them.

I will have to take the turbocharger apart it seems. on the sensors it seems fine (i attached a graph with boost level -actual vs specified and they are very close) The egr was blocked on my car - i discovered that when i replaced the vacuum lines - the vacuum line that went to egr was blocked. I did check and replaces all the vacuum hoses. Do you have any idea what is the normal vacuum value for this engine? i am not sure how much it should be. The gauge i have shows ~ -0.7 to -0.8 bar of vacuum.

Yep...the car still has original software. I will check the intake pipe of the filter box. The filter is new <3 months

@DerWeißeA2 When the car was lifted on elevator the breaks were free. I hate the way it brakes (I changed a good pair of brake pads on front because they were awful - changed from textar to ate and now it brakes a little bit better). The rear drums also have no restriction. All filters are changed - including fuel filter. (usually I change the filters with the oil - at 15k not 30k) Wheel brake lines are changed also - front and back. @Schwabe : Charge air - or boost seems good. In the graph you can see that the actual boost vs specified boost are very close. This means that the boost is fine. I have to check the G2 and the G62. Any idea what group these are in vcds? I changed only one temperature sensor the one on top of the engine. Is there another one? I checked the brakes with a thermal camera. Usually when I arrive at home the front disk brakes are around 90degrees Celsius but this is due to braking. The drums are somewhere around 40degrees. I will check the brakes again but this consumption was almost the same before all this. Today I did 120 km on rural roads - quite some hills to climb. I got 5.6liters/100km. I would have expected at least somewhere under 5liters but the car was "full" - 2 extra passages. I get almost the same consumption with my golf 6 1.6 tdi as I do with the audi on the open road. Audi is around 5.6Liters (this is for Golf 1.6 tdi on highway ~135km/h). The golf consumes usually around 6.4 Liters on the open road but very hard driving (almost race style:). As a comparison: The golf dinks around 9Liters - the Audi drinks 6.9 on the same road (on the way home - uphill). Golf reaches ~140km/h maximum -> Audi around 115km/h maximum. I am starting to believe that the road home might be to heavy on the machines. I will check turbo and vacuum and...fuel system again...and why not the brakes too. What I never checked...is the CAT - maybe it is clogged although the evac seems free. The "smoke" comes out pretty strong from the tail pipe. But a I expect a clogged cat to make the car slower and it does not seem the case.

I have an A2 - 1.2 tdi - 2001 ~odo:190k km - with climatronic and servo. My fuel consumption is 6.9L/100km Next things are new and modified in the last 1000km: -n75 valve -maf -timing belt (torsion value is now ~1+ but before this the consumption was around the same) -oil and filters -oil chain and gears -thermostat -water temperature sensor -new clutch and gearbox basic settings -new vacuum lines (vacuum drops only on brake pedal -> usually vacuum is around -0.75 bar) -egr blocked and not blocked -> the same result -Breaks seem fine - not stuck -tires have factory specified inflation ->2.5/2.9 bar I just did a graph for boost and maf. This part seems fine. The turbo actuator moves freely. Boost seems ok. Any other tips where to look? The car seems to work fine. After n75 change it seems to respond better but consumption is the same. They say I am an aggressive driver but I do not believe I am 3 liters aggressive:) . I live uphill so every time I commute home I drive uphill around 9km usually at maximum speed but the little one reaches maximum +110km/h.

Another example: You can load multiple files and see the graphs under each other:

Hello, I found this awesome vcds plotter for those interested: https://kiksu.net/vcds-graph/ You insert the vcds log directly. Press "insert log" and select the log from computer. The log below is for: Audi a2 - 1.2 any 2001. Tested for boost pressure (I just changed n75, maf and lots other) Example with one of my vcds logs -measuring blocks, egine, group 011,010,015: (if you press the "legend" you can eliminate what data to be on the graph or not)

This are the instructions for the above stickers

Just found this repair kit for those who do not want to paint: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Set-stickers-to-repair-the-lights-switch-on-you-Audi-A2-with-centre-switch/132672386863?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo% 3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS% 26ao% 3D1% 26asc% 3D225077% 26meid% 3D78e565400b1c491ba3051651c76dc89e% 26pid% 3D100008% 26rk% 3D3% 26rkt% 3D12% 26mehot% 3Dpp% 26pmt% 3D132a% 3Dpp% 26pmt% 26itmpg 3D132 3D132% 26itmpg 3D032% 26itmpg 3D2047675% 26algv% 3Ddefault% 26brand% 3DAudi & _trksid = p2047675.c100008.m2219 This is directly from producer: http://www.autostickers.pt/product-page/kit-para-comutador-das-luzes-a2-light-switch It seems they have stickers for all kind of stuff. Use google chrome for site translation:)

question for the experts: Any ideea if the oil sensor error generates a safe map for the car? The engine seems to work better....but it just might be placebo:)

IT WORKS....super I drilled 2 holes 5mm each at the specified measurements in photos (11.15mm from the side and ~16 - 22 mm from the side) - drilled from "outside to inside". Then I used a chainsaw file to enlarge the hole to spec... I did not want to use a big drilling bit because of the angle. No more stupid error....ieeeeei:D

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-R8-Oil-Level-Sensor-Genuine-422-423-427-429-420907660/263561481454?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Ebay link above. It arrived in 2 weeks but it was cheaper. There is another ofer for 141eur +15eur transport in my case. Anyways there are tons of offers compared to the a2 version. AUDI R8 Oil Level Sensor Genuine 422 423 427 429 420907660

yes - the oil dip stick goes in that hole...:))...that's why it is a different number. - Frickler The number is in the first picture. Isn't the picture good enough? -janihani I hope this afternoon i have time to lift the car and swap the sensor.

It finally arrived It seems very easy to drill the hole. I will keep you posted after install. This is the r8 version. It was half the price from ebay - compared to the one specific for a2.

Yesterday I installed the front dampers mentioned here. front: I used kyb springs - bilstein were not in stock. rear: I used kyb excelg dampers and lesjofors springs. The rear feels a little bit softer than the front but it is fine. The front is 1.5 cm higher than the 18 year old original version but I believe that is close to original height. I am not afraid to go into potholes or enter a curve at higher speed - not anymore :). I can enter curves at the same speed as I do with my golf. Thanks for those who tested those before us. greetings from Transylvania.