TitusM

Reviving this topic after a long time:) I just purchased a full bose system from ebay -- wiring, amp, speakers etc. Thanks for all the hard work you've done long ago. It was very helpful to check all the wiring. I successfully installed it today but I have a few "errors": 1)It does not say bose at the beginning even after coding with vagcom - this is not so important but maybe useful for debugging. 2)The radio does not have front/rear anymore -- only left and right in settings. Is this normal (the blaupunkt version had fader -- front/back setting)? I own a2 1.2tdi 2001. I tried with the bose cable to eath connected and disconnected -- with coding and without coding and the result is the same. The unit sound good. There is tons of bass but i still have the old blaupunkt speakers and the subwoofer. This is another question -- is it worth the trouble in changing the speakers to bose ones?

Back after some more time:((( The consumption is still higher that other cars. The valve only solved part of the problem. I just bought a compression tester and injectors o-rings. After opening up the injectors I will decide if I will sent the injectors for rebuild.

@vfralex1977 Although 057127247A fits maybe the B version would be more suitable since the engines it is designed for have smaller power (90hp+). BUT the B version seems to have a different top. Maybe diameters are the same. let us know how "A" works for you.

8Z0501541 nicht mehr lieferbar. Was ist die beste Alternative? funktioniert 6Q0501541E?

The right side wish bone is not available at all in 2022..:((((. You can still find some on the left side. So from now on only refurbishing is available retro-mobile

@vfralex1977 Found the difference: So for the 1.2 the return line opens only when reaching 60 degrees:)))))) If no aftermarket part is found then the one with A should be fine. The only difference is that the engine will warm up later.... "On the 1.2l TDI engine, the fuel pre-heating valve does not open up the path to the fuel tank until the fuel temperature exceeds 60°C (1.4l TDI engine >30°C). As a result, the heat is concentrated on the engine and the engine reaches operating temperature more quickly"

Can you compare the 2 parts when they arrive? (FIRST let them site a while in the same temperature - they have a thermal plate inside) I tested mine blowing air with my mouth trough it and so I detected different air flow.

Well I fitted the one from vaico on a mann filter with no problems BUT make sure you install the valve out of the car. It is very hard to press it in the filter housing if you are under the car. This is the part I installed (and lots of other producers are available): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vaico/2214688 I am pretty sure that the suggested part with 1J does not fit. (maybe some adaptation is needed but I do not see the reason if the one with A works well) I am not sure if changing to the plastic housing is a good idea. If something goes wrong with that housing you need to change it completely so you are back to the same job as for metal filter BUT it makes filter change 100 times easier AND I am pretty sure that using a "A" valve is the same as using a universal plastic housing. I usually change the fuel filter alt least every 2 years. (2 oil changes)

I took a closer look and indeed there are multiple letters.... And each letter is in a circle...it seems I was wrong. None of them seem to be listed as compatible with a2 1.2. Soooo this means there might be a difference in pressure and opening temperature. In my case this thing was cracked and air got inside the fuel system so ... maybe someone else can give some extra details?... Why the same part can fit multiple cars. This one seems to have a very different mounting

Do you have some links for the other versions? I paid 10euro for the part aftermarket. Oem is around 50.

The E is not part of the code for the part. And I could not find any valve without a letter. There is only A and B at the end and the mounting is different for the B. The A at the end seems to be the one to go - it was also listed as compatible. The only big difference is the color - the original was white and the new one is black. Maybe the opening temperature is different but this should not be a big difference in the way the car runs. Anyhow this improved only consumption when under load (and fixed the priming issue in my case). After driving a bit is around ~0.5 lower consumption.

Found the issue: the valve on the fuel filter: 057127247A A picture from the internet: - this is the valve in question

Found the issue: the valve on the fuel filter: 057127247A I replaced this AAAND : 1) the idle is not so rough 2)after long idle there is no white smoke on the tail pipe 3)fuel consumption is better - have to make longer runs to confirm (it looks like ~1.5 liters lower for city or hard drives --instead of 6.5L/100km now i've got ~5L/100km) 4)injector correction is much better. Before I've seen 0.5 correction when the engine was warm. Now injection correction is as in picture. From now on I will replace this together with the filter(every 2 years).

Some updates after a long time. The consumption is now around 6.4 l/100km. I was wandering if the knock sensor might have any influence in bad fuel consumption? I understand that for petrol engine at least this is an important part and it does not always raise error. I am programing also some injector repair this summer. Hopefully it will not be that expensive. I noticed that after the car idles for 30 minutes there is some white smoke on the tail pipe if I accelerate. I believe is some unburned fuel(it smells very bad), hopefully is not the head gasket. The car does not seem to suffer from performance issues or any liquid loss. google translate: Einige Updates nach langer Zeit. Der Verbrauch liegt jetzt bei 6,4 l/100km. Ich bin gewandert, ob der Klopfsensor einen Einfluss auf den schlechten Kraftstoffverbrauch haben könnte? Ich verstehe, dass dies zumindest für Benzinmotoren ein wichtiger Teil ist und nicht immer Fehler verursacht. Ich programmiere diesen Sommer auch einige Injektorreparaturen. Hoffentlich wird es nicht so teuer. Mir ist aufgefallen, dass nach 30 Minuten im Leerlauf etwas weißer Rauch am Auspuffrohr entsteht, wenn ich beschleunige. Ich glaube, es ist unverbrannter Kraftstoff (es riecht sehr schlecht), hoffentlich ist es nicht die Zylinderkopfdichtung. Das Auto scheint keine Leistungsprobleme oder Flüssigkeitsverluste zu haben.

Maybe this info from our German friends will help (use chrome and auto translate): https://wiki.a2-freun.de/wiki/index.php/Gelenkwellen