RAB3L

I have been trying all week to get my A2 through a transmission basic setting. The problem started after I had removed the starter motor to solve the starter squeal. Put the motor back and guess what, no start! Checked the starter circuit and all OK. No relevant error messages apart from those resulting from disconnections. So I assumed that the gearbox controller (which can inhibit starting if there is something amiss) was preventing starting. This means that the basic setting was lost as a result of disconnecting the battery - it shouldn't have been. This was proven by the engine starting during the second phase of the basic setting. However when it got to the "SEARCHNG" phase, it would stick with no reduction in the actuator voltage. It has been doing this all week. This morning I found an older version of VCDS, 18.9.1 and tried that. It worked first time! I will contact Ross Tech. RAB

Although the container of G004000M2 doesn't mention it, VW hydraulic oil is synthetic. It would seem that it is Pentosin 202. If you search for an equivalent it is always a synthetic (SSF) oil as opposed to mineral (MSF) oil. As such NBR, according to most chemical compatibility tables, has poor compatibility with synthetic hydraulic oil, e.g.: https://www.coleparmer.co.uk/chemical-resistance The above has both mineral and synthetic hydraulic oil options and the latter shows poor compatibility with NBR. Good alternatives are Viton/FKM/FPM and EPDM. I have purchased the X-ring (Viton) and the 7.5x1.8 O-ring (EPDM) from votaseals.com and the remaining (Viton) O-rings from polymax.co.uk Obwohl der Behälter G004000M2 nicht erwähnt, ist VW Hydrauliköl synthetisch. Es scheint, dass es Pentosin 202. Wenn Sie nach einem Äquivalent suchen, ist es immer ein synthetisches (SSF) Öl im Gegensatz zu Mineralöl (MSF). Da diese NBR nach den meisten Tabellen zur chemischen Kompatibilität mit synthetischem Hydrauliköl nicht kompatibel ist, z. B.: https://www.coleparmer.co.uk/chemical-resistance Die oben genannten Optionen sind sowohl mit Mineralöl als auch mit synthetischem Hydrauliköl erhältlich, und letzteres weist eine geringe Kompatibilität mit NBR auf. Gute Alternativen sind Viton/FKM/FPM und EPDM. Ich habe den X-Ring (Viton) und den 7,5x1,8 O-Ring (EPDM) von votaseals.com und die restlichen (Viton) O-Ringe von polymax.co.uk gekauft Should I limit myself to English? RAB3L

Yes, absolutely. RAB

From here: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_221.pdf "The gearbox speed sender measures the rota- tional speed of the gearbox input shaft. Using this Information and the road speed sig- nal, the gearbox control unit can determine what gear is selected and the extent of clutch slip." Had the same fault codes when my wife's Lupo 3L failed with the same symptoms. The G38 was tested on another 3L and found to be OK. It's a Hall sensor; they rarely fail. RAB

Hi Aamir, Might be a gearbox problem. Do you still get the 00297 code after deleting the faults? There is a general problem with the gearbox in that they (or some) were built with excessive preload on the output shaft bearing, resulting in eventual failure. This causes the clearance between the gearbox speed sensor and the gear that it is monitoring to become excessive, causing it not to work. If there is a mis-match between the engine revs and the output shaft revs, the system shuts down, as you describe. RAB

Presumably there is some sort of connection, otherwise the clutch wouldn't operate? Have you tried disconnecting and re-connecting from/to the controller? Clean the connector with switch cleaner and re-connect. if that doesn't work, try the same with the gearbox actuator, clutch actuator and hydraulic unit. For the gearbox actuator, you might have to remove the hydraulic unit to get to it - de-pressurise first by unscrewing the accumulator half a turn. The clutch actuator connection should be reachable through the wheel arch. RAB

No, it seems that it is compatible with VW steering oil. The only way to drain it all is to remove all the components and even then it's difficult. You don't want to complicate the current situation! RAB

By the way, the VW/Audi recommendation is to use VW hydraulic steering oil for the hydraulics. You should check that the Comma oil is equivalent. The VW part no. is G004000M2. RAB

Because you cannot see it, at least not with a stationary car. You could see it only with one side on an axle stand with one wheel off the ground and your foot not on the brake. If you change gear with your foot on the brake, you are still in neutral in effect because the clutch is still open. It only closes when you take your foot off the brake. RAB

Hi Aamir, The video looks fairly normal to me. Have you checked the hydraulic oil level in the reservoir? Not enough oil and/or a failing accumulator (loss of nitrogen) would cause the accelerator to be disabled while drivng. I can give you instructions if necessary. RAB

" The two things that made me really wonder were the bar which seemed twisted and the one cable which seems to move. " That's presumably the clutch arm and the cable from the clutch actuator. The lever moves backwards and forwards in neutral. All normal. RAB

Bear in mind that the output shaft of the gearbox is constantly monitored by the sensor on top of the gearbox. If there is a mis-match between the engine revs and the speed of the output shaft for any gear, the accelerator is disabled. Also any major problem with the clutch would prevent the engine from starting. RAB

Is NBR compatible with the hydraulic fluid used? Many chemical compatibility tables show that NBR is compatible with normal hydraulic fluid but not so well with synthetic hydraulic oil. Viton might be a better choice and is not a lot more expensive. http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-3 RAB3L

Dieses ist der Startermotor. Der Sensor ist am Ende des Motors, im Vordergrund. Machen Sie einfach eine einfache Führung, die an die Führung, die normalerweise an den Sensor anschließen und das andere Ende an Solenoid anschließt würde, am gleichen Punkt anschließen würde, an den der Graphit vom Sensor angeschlossen wird. RAB

Eine leichte Art, die Führungsbuchse zu überprüfen ist, den Tautness des Kabels vom Kupplungsauslöser zu überprüfen, wenn Sie die Kupplung einrasten. Mit dem Triebwerklauf in die Leerlaufstellung und jemand, welche die Bremse, Kontrolle das Kabel laufen lassen. Aber wenn Sie die Maschine nicht anlassen können…. Sie überprüften möglicherweise den Startermotor. Auf dem Motor wird selbst einem Kasten angebracht, der einen Sensor enthält, um den Starter zu verhindern, der während des Haltanfangs überhitzt. Dieses kann ausfallen, Sie ohne Starter lassend. Einfach schließen Sie die Führung an den 'Kasten' an eine Führung mit einem männlichen Verbindungsstück des Spatens an einem Ende und einem Tag auf dem anderen an und schließen Sie direkt an das Solenoid an. Unsere zwei Lupo 3L's haben diesem Ausfall gelitten und man hat mit dieser Änderung für ungefähr zehn Jahre funktioniert. Ausfall zuerst ist zeitweilig.