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Joakim

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Mein A2

  • A2 Model
    1.4 (BBY)
  • Production year
    2002
  • Color
    Lichtsilber Metallic (5B)
  • Summer rims
    15" Alu Guss 6-Arm Style
  • Winter rims
    15" Wählscheiben vom A3
  • Feature packages
    Winter
  • Sound equipment
    nicht original Audi Radio
  • Panorama roof
    nein
  • Air condition unit
    ja
  • Hitch
    nein

Wohnort

  • Wohnort
    Eskilstuna

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  1. Ein bisschen Information an diese Thema ist hier dokumentiert: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/alternator-findings-aua.50390/
  2. Sorry, I missed your post. You mean the corresponding spline inside the CV joint? Not bad really. But I didnt reuse it as I bought a complete driveshaft. Works well ever since.
  3. I think you drilled 5x100 in your A8 rims, right? Since the rim material thickness are constant in that region (?), and since an A2 is considerably lighter than an A8 the risk seems rather small for material overload.
  4. Good point. => only if one see higher speed than those value (60rpm) on the gearbox input shaft at neutral you have a problem. In my case it was around 100-250 rpm, i. e. a real problem.
  5. I had the same symptoms in my 1.2TDI this summer. More and more often I could not engage reverse gear. The R symbol in the display would just flash, but no gear was engaged. Only if I first engaged forward gear and then very very quickly moved the gear lever to R I could engaged reverse gear (together with a nasty sound). I connected vcds and could identify the cause: the gearbox input shaft speed in neutral was not zero, or even near zero, it was several 100rpm actually. This seemed to be accepted by the system when engaging a forward gear (probably since it has a synchronisation), but not when attempting to engage the reverse gear. So my clutch was not 100% releasing, and I concluded I needed to get it exchanged. This was done about a month ago, and it turned out that it mainly was the clutch release bearing guide tube that was worn so badly it was in several pieces, stoppning the clutch release bearing from moving fully freely. So after exchanging the clutch, release bearing and guide tube the car and gearbox now works perfectly.
  6. I finally got around changing the drive shaft today. I can confirm that my suspicions in my first post was correct; it was the splines that failed: The splines between the actual shaft and the outer joint were no longer able transfer any torque. I cant conclude the root cause in the same way as when this happened at the left side (this is now on the right side), when it seemed that corrosion had reduce the spline material. detail video Well well, it has now been replaced with a new SKF VKJC 5097 and the car drives fine now. The new drive shaft was approx 0,9 kg heavier than the original one. Either thicker material or just homogenous shaft instead of hollow I guess. SKF calls it OEM quality or something like that, but this is on the borderline I would say; my ALU car is now heavier .
  7. Thanks Marcel. Driving the car is by obvious reasons not even possible. As can be seen in the video the outer joint does not rotate when the shaft is, which I would say rules out the possibility that the joint is "slipping" in the wheel bearing. Well, I am not unfamiliar to car repairs so this will get fixed on coming week for sure. Have actually already ordered an SKF drive shaft VKJC 5097.
  8. 1. I am not aware that any particular sealant should be used in that connection, should it? 2. You are right, drive shaft length could be one suspect, perhaps if the shaft is too short. Or has not been fully inserted in the outerjoint so the circlip engages. I need to check this when I take it apart. But from what I can see this is the original genuine Audi drive shaft, i.e. seems not to be a different shorter type. Overall, seems this has not happened to any one else. Interesting that it happens on both sides for me on this car.
  9. Hallo Entschuldigung, aber Ich glaube dass Sie mir besser verstanden ob ich in English schreibe. I just had a failure with the propulsion of our 2001 Audi A2 1.4 AUA . The car wont move by itself and this is the second time for me. When I bought the car one year ago it had the same problem of not being able to move by itself, and the seller advertised the car as having a faulty gearbox. But once home I could conclude that it was the left side drive shaft that had failed. The particular failure mode was a first for me; it was the splines that attaches the outer joint to the shaft itself that had failed. At closer inspection I could see that it was the splines of the shaft itself that had corroded som bad that it lost its mechanical connection with the inner splines of the outer joint, so it was just spinning when trying to transmit torque. And now, a year later I suspect that the same thing has happened to the right side. A video I just made: https://youtu.be/PYj95qabnL4 Is this a common thing to happen? I havent read about anywhere yet.
  10. Ist das ein SKF VKJC 5072? Diese habe ich schlechte erfahrung von für AUA links.
  11. My first A2, still in my custody and captured yesterday while still not too dirty.
  12. Ich habe in Dezember 2020 zwei Bridgestone B381 145/18-14 bestellt. Geliefert war ein mit DOT 3020 (Woche 30, Jahr 2020), ein var älterer (kan nicht jetzt genau erinren). Grusse
  13. Hi Ich habe jetzt ein solches 3.9mm endoskop bestellt, danke für die linke. Aber ich kann nicht genau wissen ob 3.9mm ist das gesamte Aussendiameter oder nur die Lensediameter ist?
  14. Nur neugirig ob andere Querlenker ist zu bekommen in Deutschland. Ich habe auch Original gekauft voriges Jahre hier in Schweden, für cirka 250Euro, weil ich keine andere finden konnte.
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