Joakim

Kein Vortrieb ist auch fur mich eingetroffen (an beide! seiten an mein 2001 AUA). Link

Ja das geht. Exakt dass habe ich gemacht, und brauche die Komfort CAN bus zu anschlussen. Ohne funktioniert nicht beleuchtung oder ein-aus.

Manschetten fur 1.2TDI Querlenker: ich kann Triscan 8501 2914 empfehlen. Passt gut und wirkt haltbar. Ich habe solche vor zwei Jahre verbaut und kenne leute wie noch ungefähr vier Jahren ohne rissen gefaren ist. Kostet nicht viel.

Manschetten fur 1.2TDI Querlenker: kann empfehle Triscan 8501 2914. Passt gut und wirkt haltbar.

Suche ein gutes Gestänge fur Wisher, 8Z1955603 weil mein hat zu viel Axel-Spiel. Grusse Joakim

Ja ich habe schon eine stellmotor mit defektes v 2.1 pot selbst repariert mit ein neues v3 pot und das 3D Adapter. Ein Freund mit 3D Printer hat mir gehelft mit der Adapter. Es geht.

Ich fahre jetzt eine von meinen 1.2TDI mit Nokian Hakkapelitta 9 175/65-14 an orginale 4.5" Felgen. Das geht ohne Probleme aber sieht nicht 100% wundershön. Kurvenstabilität ist vielleicht ein kleine bischen schlechter als anders.

Thanks, interesting to read. Was it possible to change synch rings without a full set of gearbox special tools, or was it left to specialists in your case?

Good news, it seems then that my cars could improve. I really would like a shift quality like that. Speaking of backlash (or mechanical play), it should be quite important then to assure the outer driveshaft joints really are well glued to the hub?

Hi I have not only one 1.2TDI but three, and they all are in the range of 250000-350000km age. The gearshifts are often very noticeable, both audioable and to some extent by a small force feeling. It is very different from a typical manually shifted std manual car which is totally smooth (unless the synchronizers are worn). What should be expected from a 1.2TDI in really good condition? Was the shifts un-noticeable when the cars were new?

Kleines Schlafzimmer?

Danke. Ich habe jetzt zwei schwedischen Prospekt gesehen, ein von april 2003 und ein von april 2004 wie auch stoff-bildern hat, und dort steht immer noch Sinus (nicht cirrus). Wahrsheinlich "market" abhängig dann weil englische prospekte benutzt Cirrus Name.

Vielleicht so. Aber wie ist es in spätere deutsche Prospekte (Broschyr?), heisst das Sinus immer noch da?

2001 mit N0G (laut Erwin= Sinus) 2003 mit N0G (laut Erwin = Cirrus)

Hallo alle Ich bin vervirrt. Ich habe immer geglaubt dass die Standard Stoff heisst Sinus (mit Ausstattungskod N0G). Aber Erwin sagt dass meine 2003 BBY hat N0G mit der erklärung "Cirrus", nicht Sinus. Det wagen ist neuverkauft in Schweden, aber mein auch Schwedenverkaufte 2001 AUA sagt Erwin hat N0G = Sinus. Eh? Was ist die deutsche erfahrung und gewissen hier? Grusse von Schweden

Entschuldigung aber welches Schraube meinst du? Ich habe diese Operation gemacht aber 2cm und Icm?

Yes I think it is the other way around.

Ein bisschen Information an diese Thema ist hier dokumentiert: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/alternator-findings-aua.50390/

Sorry, I missed your post. You mean the corresponding spline inside the CV joint? Not bad really. But I didnt reuse it as I bought a complete driveshaft. Works well ever since.

I think you drilled 5x100 in your A8 rims, right? Since the rim material thickness are constant in that region (?), and since an A2 is considerably lighter than an A8 the risk seems rather small for material overload.

Good point. => only if one see higher speed than those value (60rpm) on the gearbox input shaft at neutral you have a problem. In my case it was around 100-250 rpm, i. e. a real problem.

I had the same symptoms in my 1.2TDI this summer. More and more often I could not engage reverse gear. The R symbol in the display would just flash, but no gear was engaged. Only if I first engaged forward gear and then very very quickly moved the gear lever to R I could engaged reverse gear (together with a nasty sound). I connected vcds and could identify the cause: the gearbox input shaft speed in neutral was not zero, or even near zero, it was several 100rpm actually. This seemed to be accepted by the system when engaging a forward gear (probably since it has a synchronisation), but not when attempting to engage the reverse gear. So my clutch was not 100% releasing, and I concluded I needed to get it exchanged. This was done about a month ago, and it turned out that it mainly was the clutch release bearing guide tube that was worn so badly it was in several pieces, stoppning the clutch release bearing from moving fully freely. So after exchanging the clutch, release bearing and guide tube the car and gearbox now works perfectly.

I finally got around changing the drive shaft today. I can confirm that my suspicions in my first post was correct; it was the splines that failed: The splines between the actual shaft and the outer joint were no longer able transfer any torque. I cant conclude the root cause in the same way as when this happened at the left side (this is now on the right side), when it seemed that corrosion had reduce the spline material. detail video Well well, it has now been replaced with a new SKF VKJC 5097 and the car drives fine now. The new drive shaft was approx 0,9 kg heavier than the original one. Either thicker material or just homogenous shaft instead of hollow I guess. SKF calls it OEM quality or something like that, but this is on the borderline I would say; my ALU car is now heavier .

Right, that is my view of things too.

Thanks Marcel. Driving the car is by obvious reasons not even possible. As can be seen in the video the outer joint does not rotate when the shaft is, which I would say rules out the possibility that the joint is "slipping" in the wheel bearing. Well, I am not unfamiliar to car repairs so this will get fixed on coming week for sure. Have actually already ordered an SKF drive shaft VKJC 5097.