luzt

What are the real differences between these two gearboxes? As pointed out by @Mankmil here there is a stronger differential and return wheel in the FLE, but how much stronger? Is is it worth spending extra money and time to get a FLE instead of a DSK? These are very nerdy questions, and info is really hard to come by.

Yes, changed it about 500km ago. Put in about 2,9-3L, the knocking sounds where there before the oil change. No strange colours or metallic fragments.

Greetings fellow enthusiasts! A hard metallic knocking sound has presented it self when changing gears while driving, it's consistent as it goes through gear 1-4 but almost quiet when switching into fifth. You can actually feel the gear changes (very noticeably) as the gangsteller switches between gears. I've done numerous gear adaptations, no play what so ever in the gangsteller linkage. The clutch, including the bearing only has 100 000km on it, the gearbox bushing (linking it to the subframe/pendulum support) has only 50 000km on it. The sound and feel when changing gears stationary is relatively quiet/subtle. If it would have been between a specific gear, say 2->3 I'd be guessing on a shift fork going bad for that specific gear, but as it's between 1-4 I can't really pinpoint the fault. Has any one come across this before? Might I have to put in a re-built gearbox? Please tell me I've ovelooked something very simple, humiliation is much easier to cope with then spending thousands of euros.

I've just extracted the rear bushes on my 1.2TDI, no biggie. But as I measure the hole (on both sides), it's roughly 68mm wide and the new bushes are 72mm! Acoarding to ETKA there are only one set of bushes for 1.2/1.4/1.6, and when browsing ebay I can see that both SWAG and other manufacturers say that the bushes should be 72mm. Have I nog gotten all of it out? Is there something I'm missing? Or are the ones from third part manufacturers all wrong? PS: The old ones are ~67-68mm wide.

After a few hours in the garage I've come to the conclusion that I have a small play in my differential. The right side has no play at all, but the left side has a few degrees of play (backlash). The question is, how much is OK? Can any one recall if they have any play at all on the left side? By this I'm reffering to that you can turn the drive shaft a few degrees before the gear box locks up and starts turning the other wheel.

Nämen hej! I managed to find that part number plus this one; 8Z0407271AK I'm not really sure which one that really fits. But with a number it's much easier to get searching, though at around 2200sek (240€) plus postage I'm looking at around ~260€, when all I need is the tripod. Annoying ;P

We are now three people over at the Swedish A2 forum looking for the inner tripod on the left hand drive shaft, for the 1.2 TDI. I've just read in the Wiki that you can't buy the tripod as a spare part and you have to replace the whole thing (which is probably expensive as hell?). We've searched ebay without any luck at all for some aftermarket part. Does anyone have any tips on where we can get the part?

As both the 105G and 105E no longer sells, does the Bilstein FE1-D110 fit in the original front spring bearings or do I have to buy new ones?

The knowledge that dwells within this forum warms my heart! Thanks so much for the help!

I can find springs marked 171 411 105 G but not the last three digits. What does these regulate?

Oh, is this a harder spring then the original? And will it fit the original front spring bearings? And am I correct to asume that the bilstein spring works with the original front spring bearing?

867 411 105 E seems to be very hard to find. Is there any place that still supplies them?

Aha, awesome! Then I'll order the bilstein shocks together with the front springs you recomended. Will report back in a couple of weeks with the result. Are there any good "heavy load" REAR springs that work? It is a type of spring that does not compress as easy as regular springs.

So 867 411 105 E will fit perfectly to the bilstein VNE-4476 together with the original bearings? Is the ride stiffer, the same or softer then the original with 867 411 105 E?

Reading the translated version (trough google) makes it a bit hard. Is this the best setup; Front shocks: Bilstein VNE-4476 Front springs: Bilstein FE1-D110 (or SPIDAN 48033) Rear shocks: BNE-A957 I've allready changed the rear springs. Does this make the card bumpier? Is there any alternatives with a smoother ride? And since I've very recently put in new spring bearings in the front for the original springs, do these still fit or do I need to replace them as well?

Got me a pair of these, I hope this is what you were refering to

Okay, I'll get my hands on one of those Do you take it out from the top or bottom?

Hi! As allways when I get stuck and ElsaWin is no good, I turn to my neighbors! I'm trying to change my thermostat (1.2TDI), the problem is loosening the second (lower) bolt to the pipe that holds the thermostat it self. If the picture actually would bare any ressemblance to reality they would'nt just have written "loosen it", as it bloody impossible to get to! Someone must have done this before me and worked out some smart way that I've not thought of yet, and not taking the motor out/removing the front bumper. Thanks in advance!

Followup! The customer had installed his new stereo all by him self, this resulting in a short to ground causing the basic settings to result in RTFM. So after removing the stereo and a bunch of faulty connections here and there, the car went through the adaption without any problems at all. So keep in mind that faulty electronics can cause major hazzle!

Hi! At the creep point adapation the fourth value (the box to the far right) jumps between 0/16/255 totally random. Because of this I'm stuck at the first step of the adaption with a 5 in the third box and it does not at ALL respond to the break pedal. No problems with the brake light switch (works perfect). No fault codes what so ever. The car is usable and the general basic settings works perfect and the clutch cylinder value is at a solid 1,85V. What does the fourth (4) value display? Some sensor is broken, it's just a matter of knowing which one! Big thanks in advance!

I know there is a way to meassure the values of the gangsteller, will have to look for that. This little beauty has done 26 8600km, but accoarding to the current owner no basic settings has ben performed for the last 50000-100000km. So internal and external tear of the robot can absolutley be a factor! I'll shift the gangsteller from my car to the problematic one to see if it makes any difference.

I've been browsing these forums so much that it comes naturally Another pump / accumulator - Correct The symptoms: The third gear could not be selected. When I took the gearbox apart the shift fork was snapped of, so no strange things there. Accoarding to the current owner no basic settings had probably been done in the last 50 000 - 100 000km.

Hi! As we over at the swedish A2/lupo -3l forums can't find a solution I'm posting the problem here as well hoping that our fellow neighbours can help! Exchanged parts: Clutch (release bearing, sliding sleeve, clutch) The shift fork for third gear Problems before repairing - Third gear could not be selected Current problem - RTFM (units 12) during basic settings During the procedure a big play was located in the upper arm of the gangsteller (about 3-4mm) and the "wishbone" also had a huge play. This was probably the cause of the faulty shift fork. These problems were eliminated (wishbone exchanged and the upper arm tightened). When all was put back together the gearbox worked (shifting gears in triptronic) this was before the first basic settings was carried out. After doing ~30 basic settings with the adjustment nut in all various positions it still gives an RTFM! (units 12). Note: All gears work fine when you push them in manually! During the basic settings it looks as if all the gears are selected. Even tried with another pumping unit, no change. When the gearbox was taken apart a thick layer (5-6mm) of steel chips was found on the magnet. The two hoses on the gangsteller does not have any play, and no leaks can be found externally. Best regards /luzt (admin @ http://www.lupo3lclub.se) PS: Admin might want to change the title to a more suting one in german.

Here is how I solved it with a 10W LED light. That sucker does much more then just light up the boot Here's the link for the item. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Underwater-Spot-Light-10W-12V-900-1000LM-Pure-White-Light-for-Aquarium-Pool-/221086754532?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3379cc26e4

On behalf of the Swedish lupo/audi A2 3l forums, we thank you! /luzt | admin @ lupo3lclub.se