Problems with 1,2 Gearbox

[Artur]

[02-auto trans] -> [Measuring Blocks - 08] -> type 014, click [Go]

 

should do the trick.

 

Before you do that, perform all the other prearrangements.

[Martynas]

also I don't understand this: Loosen the gear actuator nut and tighten it with zero-potential.

I think I thound the nut, but how to I do that zero potential?

[Artur]

Zero potential means without twisting, pulling or pushing.

[DerWeißeA2]

[02-auto trans] -> [Measuring Blocks - 08] -> type 014, click [Go]

 

should do the trick.

 

Nope, you need to use the basic settings, there you type 014 and click go.

 

 

 

also I don't understand this: Loosen the gear actuator nut and tighten it with zero-potential.

I think I thound the nut, but how to I do that zero potential?

 

Not necessary in your case. Just put the selector lever at that point at D and back to manual.

[Martynas]

Nope, you need to use the basic settings, there you type 014 and click go.

 

 

 

 

 

Not necessary in your case. Just put the selector lever at that point at D and back to manual.

 

I found those basic setting but the damn program said that I need license for this function

[Martynas]

i managed to go to basic settings and ran group 014, got the fault 12, then I went under the car tu adjust that zero potence but now I can't run the test again? instead of four boxes in the basic setting screen where I saw WAIT ADJUST etc I see 10 boxes with numbers

[Martynas]

after I moved the gear linkage from E to tiptronic it showed the the box with wait, but in a second in showed RTFM again, why it's not performing test again after my adjustments?

[DerWeißeA2]

Have a look at the upper arm of the gear actuator. This sometimes is a little bit loose and has too much play on the shaft.

[Martynas]

when doing this step:

Loosen the gear actuator nut and tighten it with zero-potential.

in the last box volts value should change as I move the gear? in my case it shows 1,89volts and nothing changes

[Martynas]

The rod inside on the ball has some play

[DerWeißeA2]

I meant this effect:

 

IMG_0592.mp4

[Martynas]

no, there is no movement, but the rod on the ball moves a lot. could this be a problem? shall I replace the rod, or the ball?

[Martynas]

on friday I have ordered the new rod, will get it tomorrow hope it will solve my problem. what other things could cause 12 fault?

[Artur]

I had a defective reverse gear switch, for example. Caused RTFM!12 sometimes. Check it, just for the case. Engage the reverse gear manually (under the car) and verify the reverse lights.

Bearbeitet 24. Januar 2016 von Artur

[Martynas]

Hm it's not that simple to determin which gear is the reverse one, but i will try, thanks

Bearbeitet 24. Januar 2016 von Martynas

[DerWeißeA2]

Can you hear the gear actuator working during basic settings?

[Martynas]

maybe some silent clicking... how loud it should be? and it runs it twice from 01 to 28 before it shows RTFM and 12

[DerWeißeA2]

Okay, you should here the gear actuator shifting. That's louder than just a click.

 

This confirmed my suspicion that the valves are not opened properly on the hydraulic unit. So again loosen the plate with the three lines of the hydraulic unit and let them new lock into place. And than start a new basic setting.

[Martynas]

I did that already when you told this the first time it is not shifting gears for sure and the pump never started, so it really wasn't shifting as it looses pressure after three shifts

[DerWeißeA2]

Ah, i understand. I had this issue myself several times and it never was a real problem with the components. That's why i have asked you if you ever removed the key and tried to start again. Sometimes this works. Sometimes you have to remove the key, lock the car, unlock the car and at the moment you open the door, the pump starts.

 

Sometimes it helps to electricaly unplug/plug the hydraulic unit.

[Martynas]

Remember I told you that the pump doesn't start when I open the door, but it was like that even before the car was driving fine. what activates the pump when I open the door? for example interior light comes on when I open it.

Bearbeitet 24. Januar 2016 von Martynas

[DerWeißeA2]

Another possibility would be the fuse for the hydraulic pump.

[Martynas]

the pump is running, when I switch on the ignition, so it is not the fuse I guess

[Martynas]

I've changed the rod today, now there is no movement but nothing changed, during adaptation i get 12. Please look at the picture and tell me what voltage should i see in the fourth box?

[Martynas]

Anyone? I don't know what to do next

[Artur]

I don't know exactly which value should be at the 9th position. But it should vary between your adjusted 1.8-2.0V plus 2V. In your case something between 1.89V and 3.89V. If it doesn't, something is wrong.

 

Did your check the reverse lights? Look at them during the basic setting. They should light up for a moment at step 6 or so, not really sure at which number. You will hear the typical sound of reverse gear engaging.

[Martynas]

As i mentioned during adaptation the unit is not making any moves, it is just clicking through those 28 steps but nothing moves at all

[DerWeißeA2]

The clutch should be open, the voltage has to be around 2 Volts higher than your 1,89.

[Martynas]

I took out the unit, the lower arm was loose, i tightened the bolt, now its ok, but what do you think about the potenciometer position? Shouldn't it be in the midle?

[DerWeißeA2]

Are these pictures explanation enough?

[Martynas]

I can't unscrew the bolts to see inside

[DerWeißeA2]

Okay, made 2 photos.

 

1. in the most left position

 

 

 

2. in the most right position of the arm

 

[Martynas]

Looks like mine then here it is ok. I read somewhere that these washers wear out in te picture and there is some free play in mine

[DerWeißeA2]

Never had problems with that.

[Martynas]

Ar these pipes connected correctly?

[DerWeißeA2]

Yes, the blue one is the lower, the silver one the upper.

[Martynas]

assembled everything back, nothing changed, but the fact is that the clutch is not moving during adaptation, so I think the valve is the fault as I had doubt about it and it was the only thing I removed before it all happened. Is it for sale separately? what is the code for it?

[DerWeißeA2]

No, only together with the whole hydraulic unit.

[Martynas]

went to VW today 1100 EUR for the unit how cool is that

[DerWeißeA2]

I don't think you have a real technical problem.

 

Try to do the basic setting several times. The gear actuator must first be completely vented, otherwise the values for the gearbox control unit are out of limits.

Bearbeitet 26. Januar 2016 von DerWeißeA2

[Martynas]

I damaged the valve I'm pretty sure about it as there are no other things to look for. tried to apply 12v to it again, this time he moved the clutch once and didn't move anymore.

[DerWeißeA2]

Than open it, and verify if the cable connection are still given.

[Martynas]

I thought it's impossible to disassemble? how will I put it together?

[DerWeißeA2]

Like this, but I do not know how that keeps in practice.

[Martynas]

I,ve changed the whole pump and nothing changed the main problem that i have is that when i press breaks the clutch cilinder is not moving. Where would you look for the fault?

[Mankmil]

Does your stop light switch work? Do you see your stoplights and is your gear selector unlocked, when you push the pedal?

Bearbeitet 26. Januar 2016 von Mankmil

[Martynas]

Yes brakes and gear selector work, maybe i shortened something in the ecu when those green leads on the valve touched each other? Where is the gear box ecu located?

[Mankmil]

Did you really short-circuited the green wires to the clutch valve? :III::omg:

 

This would be an explanation, why the valve isn't triggered anymore. It could be possible that the driver transistor in the ecu died (or maybe there is a fuse on the pcb that died).

You'll find the gear box ecu directly below the engine ecu (A2).

 

Btw: Are we talking about an A2 oder a Lupo?

 

Could you please check the Measuring Block 003? Field 3 and 4 shows the clutch's actual value and the set value. If they differ, the ecu tries to trigger the clutch valve.

In Block 005 Field 4 you'll find the current running through the valve. It should be 0,03 to 0730A for the closed clutch and 0,800..0,900A for the opened clutch.

Bearbeitet 26. Januar 2016 von Mankmil

[Martynas]

it's lupo, and yes I think I shortened them as I pulled on the leads when I was pulling out the valve to change seals what do you thinks should I look for another ECU or try to open this one and look for something burned?

[Mankmil]

Please check the Measuring Blocks first. This should give you an impression, what happend while you shorted the wires.

 

It shouldn't be a problem to get a spare ecu for the lupo (I've two here if you need one) because they are not as rare as the A2 ones are.

 

When you're sure that the ecu is broken, you've nothing to loose. Just open it an see if you can fix something.