Problems with 1,2 Gearbox

[Martynas]

Hallo Freunde Ich bin aus Litauen, aber meine freundin hat problemen mit automatik getriebe wie in Deutschland und anderen countries Soory mein Deutsch is nicht so gut Ich habe gegoogled und fast ale themas sind in Deutsch. Aber die sind wenige jahre alt. Vielleicht ist da jetzt alles mehr klar wie dichtungsproblemen zu verhindern? unser auto ist undicht. aber es ist hard zu zagen woher die flussigkeit fliest. Kan jemand mir die licht i dem tunel zu finden? Bitte schreiben mir den PM oder hier. Danke ich weis nicht wo zu beginen.

[DerWeißeA2]

Das System wird in 99% der Fälle nur an 2 Stellen undicht:

 

1. der obere Schlauchanschluss zum Gangsteller

2. die Dichtung an der Gangstellerwanne.

 

Zum Lokalisieren der undichten Stelle: verölte Stellen ordentlich reinigen und dann kurze Zeit später schauen, wo es wieder feucht ist.

[bret]

Hello Martynas,

 

feel free to write in English. Mark - derweisseA2 - already wrote a possible answer to your problem. I've also looked at my car on Friday and done exactly the same thing: clean up and will look again in a couple of weeks to see where oil is coming from. My problem is slightly different but the idea to find it is the same.

 

- Bret

[Artur]

Yeah, but look a little bit earlier, the next day maybe. After a couple of weeks it might have the same look as now.

[DerWeißeA2]

Bret, danke für's Verschieben.

[Martynas]

Hi, I tried to look by cleaning and checking later, but with no success it was allllll wet

 

DerWeisseA2 kanst do vieleicht fotos zeigen es is fur mich nicht ganz clar welche teile konen undicht sein?

[Martynas]

Correct me if I'm wrong

fur das

1. der obere Schlauchanschluss zum Gangsteller

 

ich brauche

O-Ring Dichtsatz Gangsteller Vw Lupo 3l / FSI Audi A2 DSK FLE FFU | eBay

 

und fur das

2. die Dichtung an der Gangstellerwanne.

 

O-Ring Dichtsatz Gangsteller Vw Lupo 3l / FSI Audi A2 DSK FLE FFU | eBay

 

Correct?

[DerWeißeA2]

In most cases you need the top hydraulic line, partnumber 085 142 418 B. Only to replace the sealing rings is not enough.

 

The reason is that the metal of the hose coupling has rubbed off. The top hydraulic line is the silver one.

 

 

For the gear actuator you need the seal set 085 198 409.

 

Edit:

And buy a new securing springs 085 142 419 for the hose line.

Bearbeitet 23. November 2015 von DerWeißeA2

[Martynas]

Danke

[Martynas]

here is the place it is leaking from any Ideas what to replace? I think it will be something different than in your suggestions

Bearbeitet 2. Dezember 2015 von Martynas

[DerWeißeA2]

I think it is leaking there, because there is too much hydraulic öl in the white reservoir. This happens when oil is topped up, but the system is not yet depressurized.

 

Check the hydraulic oil level by loosen the black pressure bomb (a hissing sound is heard). The oil level should now be in the small "window" above on the left side of the reservoir.

[Artur]

I think "pressure accumulator" sounds less dangerous than "pressure bomb"

[DerWeißeA2]

Ja und?

[Martynas]

I think it is leaking there, because there is too much hydraulic öl in the white reservoir. This happens when oil is topped up, but the system is not yet depressurized.

 

Check the hydraulic oil level by loosen the black pressure bomb (a hissing sound is heard). The oil level should now be in the small "window" above on the left side of the reservoir.

 

we are filling it in as we lose the oil, when we lose it the reservoir becomes empty and the gears stop changing. Then we fill it up and the box works again.

 

If I loosen the bomb oil drips from under it.

[DerWeißeA2]

I copy your PM to this thread for better understanding of what you did:

Hi, I went now to loosen the bomb and see the level of oil. So ok there was too much oil in it. But it is leaking as my friend is filling it up everyday. Without filling it up box stops working. But now I think that when there was too much oil it dripped through cork and now it is misleading me I cleaned everything once again and sucked the oil out to be on the right level in the reservoir. (so that is up to the upper box on the reservoir side)

the connections of pipes going to the hydraulic box and the clutch cylinder are wet but I thought those are wet because it is wet up above and the oil just run down

 

Could be the seal ring of the pressure bomb.

 

As far as i can see, we are talking about a Lupo 3L, right. So it is easy to remove the pressure bomb and check the seal ring.

 

But in most cases the system loses hydraulic oil as quicky as in your case, it is a problem with the parts mentioned in #2.

[Martynas]

I copy your PM to this thread for better understanding of what you did:

 

 

Could be the seal ring of the pressure bomb.

 

As far as i can see, we are talking about a Lupo 3L, right. So it is easy to remove the pressure bomb and check the seal ring.

 

But in most cases the system loses hydraulic oil as quicky as in your case, it is a problem with the parts mentioned in #2.

 

Now I'm replacing the seals on the ends of those pipe, bet now I wonder which goes where, there are three terminals on the pump P T K... where do I connect blue one and where the white one? Yellow one is in the middle for sure

[DerWeißeA2]

P is blue

K is gold

T is silver

 

[Martynas]

so?

[Martynas]

P is blue

K is gold

T is silver

 

 

Dan gut, danke

[Martynas]

letzte frage

the oil level should be on that red line?

when engine off or running? because when I start it the level drops

[DerWeißeA2]

Yes, if there is no pressure in the system (loosen the pressure bomb), the level has to be on the red line. After running the hydraulic pump, the level drops to half of the reservoir.

[Martynas]

genau das pasiert bei mir dan ales klar, danke noch mal. verde jeztz beobachten ob es vieder verliert ol oder nicht

[Martynas]

Hallo Freunde

I have changed all the seals on the pipes but now I realized that it is leaking from another place and I didn't see anyone having such a problem. Please look at the picture. It is leaking from behind of this sensor (the big one in the middle) or what ever it is. But I don't understand how to remove it and see if there is any seal behind. it is turning freely but has no thread so that I could twist it out like some bolt.

Bitte hilfen sie mir

[DerWeißeA2]

Just remove the screw on the side of the hydraulic unit shown in the picture below. After that you can easily unplug the valve.

 

 

[Martynas]

Thank you

[Martynas]

I've changed the seals on that thing and did put everything back in place, but now the starter doesn't turn. What could I miss?

[DerWeißeA2]

Just for the record here is what i wrote you via pn:

1. Did you put back the plug of the hydraulic unit?

 

2. When you reassemble the hydraulic unit with the plate holding the three lines there has to be a uniformly small gap between them. Open the black pressure accumulator before you stuck the unit and the plate together.

 

Mark

[Martynas]

1.yes

2.no I didn't remove the accumulator but I didn't remove it before either when I was dealing with other leaks

[DerWeißeA2]

Is there pressure in the system? Is the pump running?

[Martynas]

Is there pressure in the system? Is the pump running?

 

Yes it runs and stops when the system is pressurized as usual.

 

but for example I cant even change gears in triptronic mode with engine off, but I used to do that when I was checking the accumulator.

[DerWeißeA2]

Hm, anyone else have an idea?

[Martynas]

how to check that solenoid valve for clutch that I was changing the seals? those green leads are somehow moving back and forth. Maybe I pulled them at some point and broke the connection?

[Martynas]

one more thing I noticed the pump isn't running when drivers side is opened... but it wasn't running before too

[DerWeißeA2]

Just hold 12 volts to the two pins on the connector?

[Martynas]

but how will I understand if it operates? should click?

[DerWeißeA2]

Yes, you can hear when the valve is attracted by the magnet.

[pax]

...but now the starter doesn't turn.

Maybe this is to simple, but did you also try it in gear leaver position N?

 

Bye

pax

[Martynas]

tested it woks, it even pulled the clutch when I did the test.... so what else? maybe this?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085)

[Martynas]

Maybe this is to simple, but did you also try it in gear leaver position N?

 

Bye

pax

 

I did in all gears it behaves the same way

[DerWeißeA2]

Have you ever removed the key and tried to start again?

[Martynas]

Yes

[Martynas]

New finding, when I'm trying to start it in Parking mode in the display I see 5 .... it means it is in 5th gear now? maybe that is why it is not allowing to start it? but the car is rolling when I push it. So it is not in the 5th gear it only thinks so

[Artur]

Perform a basic adjustment of the gear box. Do you know how to do it?

[Martynas]

I don't have vag com but I will get one. Where could i get te instructions? I have put the link to them here earlier , are they correct?

[Martynas]

these are correct instructions?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...nsmission_(085)

[Artur]

Your link is broken somehow. Here you go:5-Speed Electronic Manual Transmission (085) - Ross-Tech Wiki

[Martynas]

It's the same link Arthur I don't know why copy past doesn't work here but anyway now I struggle with vag com

[Martynas]

what version of vag com is needed? I got 409,1 and I don't see basic settings in it

[Martynas]

will get 11.11 tomorrow hope that one will be ok

[Martynas]

Help guys I don't see where to perform basic setings in VCDS 11.11 for other steps I see "02-auto trans"