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Hello!

 

I've just bought a 2003 Audi A2 3L. It's been in the UK since it was a couple of years old.

 

It's been off the road for almost 2 years with a gearbox controller issue. It's been to Audi and had a new clutch fitted but they couldn't get the system to work so the car was sold.

 

It's been sitting around since then until I bought it. The person that I bought it from had removed the solenoid block (Gangsteller) to clean it and check for any obvious problems.

 

I've just refitted the Gangsteller but it won't work.

 

Within basic settings, it's not trying to shift at all. Also, the clutch actuator is not working.

 

I refilled the hydraulics with the accumulator backed off 1/4 turn, then tightened it up, plugged the pump in and opened the drivers door.

The pump started up and the level slowly dropped as it was pumped around the system.

Once it had stopped, I unplugged it, backed off the accumulator again, allowed the level to come back up and checked it. Added a little more to the upper internal line, tightened the accumulator again and plugged it all back in again.

I then switched on (with battery charger connected), cleared the faults in the gearbox ECU and went onto basic settings.

At the point of the system going through the 'Transmission Positions', there was no sound from the solenoid block. It's not trying to select gears frown.png

It ran through the positions twice and then came up with RTFM!

Someone suggested bleeding air off the clutch actuator so I backed off the allen bolt which faces up but there was no pressure there and oil barely trickled out.

The clutch actuator is not trying work at all. The clutch voltage is reading 1.85v at all times, whether the pump is plugged in or not.

The pump isn't running unless I disconnect and re-connect the pump wiring. When it does run it's only for half a second as I expect the pressure is already there.

Pressure voltage is 3.11v.

Ideas please smile.png

 

MG

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Check the connection of the 3 hydraulic hoses to the hydraulic unit. The gap of the carrier plate must be parallel to the hydraulic unit.

 

If that is okay, loosen the retaining plate and reconnect it with the hydraulic unit. The valves may have not opened properly.

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1 hour ago, DerWeißeA2 said:

Check the connection of the 3 hydraulic hoses to the hydraulic unit. The gap of the carrier plate must be parallel to the hydraulic unit.

 

If that is okay, loosen the retaining plate and reconnect it with the hydraulic unit. The valves may have not opened properly.

 

Thank you for your reply. I'll check that tonight. It doesn't look like they've been disturbed but on a car that has been looked at by many people without being able to fix it... anything is possible :)

 

MG

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Gangsteller Has been replaced? Check the four electrical connectors at the top - you can connect These in the wrong Order which will cause the Rtfm-error.

 

 

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Just now, Pater B said:

Gangsteller Has been replaced? Check the four electrical connectors at the top - you can connect These in the wrong Order which will cause the Rtfm-error.

 

 

 

Thank you. Yes I checked this carefully before connecting up and found the some drawings and files.

 

I have connected them as in this photo.

 

MG

A2 3L Solenoid block inc wiring.jpg

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Yes the Gangsteller was replaced by Audi in Nov 2012.

I removed the pump housing this afternoon complete with hydraulic lines and clutch actuator.

On the work bench, I stripped the hydraulic lines off, blew through them, pulled off the reservoir, checked that the valves weren't stuck, removed and cleaned them and blew through the valve block with compressed air. I removed the pressure sensor, cleaned and blew through from there etc and checked that the clutch solenoid activated when a feed was put to it.

I did a lot of cleaning and checking but couldn't find anything wrong at all. The clutch actuator moves freely and sprays oil out.

I re-assembled it, refitted it to the car, filled it up with new oil (the old oil was fairly murky) and tried again with basic settings.

The clutch actuator still doesn't do anything and it still fails to get through basic settings, failing as before at 12.

After that, I chose to put a feed to the clutch actuator solenoid while the system was pressurised and the clutch actuator pulled in the clutch easily and stayed put. So that works. I had managed to move the clutch lever when removing and refitting the clutch actuator.

I went through trying basic settings again... no change.

Then I looked at the G239 and G240 sensors on the solenoid block. Apparently they suffer due to heat from the exhaust so I swapped over the upper sensor (G239 I think) with the one from the Lupo 3L. 

The A2 still does nothing at all and the Lupo 3L still drives fine.

MG

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As a complete 1.2 TDI noob I would say you'd need to find the cause for RTFM 12. :kratz:

 

How about this thread:

 

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4 minutes ago, Romulus said:

As a complete 1.2 TDI noob I would say you'd need to find the cause for RTFM 12. :kratz:

 

How about this thread:

 

 That's what I'm trying to do...

 

MG

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Try this:

 

Try to pull the steelcable from the clutch actuator.

It is possible to get there from above with one hand/arm.

Of course, you are not strong enough to move the clutch but there must be a response if you check the voltage.

 

My car wasnt able to start, even not in N.

Pulling the clutchcable "activated" the broken "KNZ"=Clutch actuator and i was able to start&drive.

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I took a video of this exactly last night.

 

You can see it here:

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1726993020922324/

 

The clutch sensor voltage is readying 1.95v. It does not change if you unplug the pump or plug it back in. The voltage changes when I move the clutch lever though. It goes down to 1.51v when I pull the cable and up to around 2.01v when I push the cable back in. This is while the clutch actuator is on the car.

 

There is no hydraulic pressure to the clutch actuator.

 

MG

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Update:

 

I received a spare hydraulic setup (complete) from a fellow 3L owner in the UK.

 

Last night I swapped over everything... but one part at a time and tested each time.

 

1) I swapped the pump unit over - no change

2) I swapped the clutch actuator over, set it to 1.95v and retested - no change

3) I swapped the G240 sensor over (I have previously changed the G239 sensor without any change) and - no change

4) I swapped the solenoid block (gangsteller) over - no change.

 

After there are no other components to change, I am now looking for an ECU.

 

Does anyone have an Audi A2 3L ECU available? Part No: 6N0927735D

 

07989 333437 or syncros8@gmail.com

 

Thanks

 

MG

 

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An update...

 

I managed to test my ECU in another A2 3L... the faults suddenly appeared in his car too!!

 

So I bought a replacement ECU. Once this arrived, it was fitted and the system started to wake up :)

 

The solenoid block was also faulty (I haven't stripped it down yet) so I have borrowed one from a friend with a Lupo 3L who has converted his car to manual.

 

Tomorrow is for the MOT and then I start driving it every day :)

 

MG

  • Daumen hoch. 2

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I am now driving my A2 3L everyday and love it!

 

However I have some suspension noise from the front.

 

I am slowly replacing parts.

 

I would like to replace the front anti-roll bar bushes - but it looks like I have to lower the front subframe to do this... is this correct?

 

MG

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You don't need to do that on the normal ones - you just need to replace the screws holding the collars in place and you should tighten with wheels on the ground / weight on the suspension. @Phoenix A2 should know. 

 

 - Bret

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13 minutes ago, bret said:

You don't need to do that on the normal ones - you just need to replace the screws holding the collars in place and you should tighten with wheels on the ground / weight on the suspension. @Phoenix A2 should know. 

 

 - Bret

 

Hmmm, the bolt heads face upwards on my A2 and that is straight into the body... how do you loosen them?

 

MG

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vor 2 Stunden schrieb Audi A2 3L:

I would like to replace the front anti-roll bar bushes - but it looks like I have to lower the front subframe to do this... is this correct?

 

MG

 

Japp:

 

 

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9 minutes ago, DerWeißeA2 said:

 

Japp:

 

 

 

Ahah... thank you that is what I needed to see!

 

Now that I can see that the 3L still has the plastic tubes... I know what the problem is.

 

Thank you :)

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