Phoenix A2

d)Valve of clutch slave cylinder Here i meant a fault of the valve that controls the clutch slave cylinder. You can see that part attached to the hydraulic-unit in post #7 photo #2. It is located right under the pressure sensor. Unfortunately this valve is not available as single replacement part. A hint can give the MVB 13 inside transmission controller when you step on brake pedal. A screenshot of the values from MVB 13 and 4 during "brake-pedal-test" would be helpful. Summary With a replacement hydraulic unit (pump+accumulator+pressure+valve for slave cylinder) you could cover a),c),d). Keep us informed about the progress and do not hesitate to ask further questions:).

OT: Jaja, Autos sind schon ein schlüpfriges Thema:mmph:. Immer wieder erquickend welche Parallelen du da entdeckst:D. Viel hat sich beim Drehstrom-Generator anscheinend wirklich nicht getan. Ein Detail ist mir beim Lesen von Dokumentation zu einem Laderegler (Hella) aufgefallen. Die Ladekontrollleuchte ist wohl nicht mehr direkt elektrisch verbunden mit dem Erregerstromkreis sondern wird vom Laderegler nur noch als Informationsquelle verwendet um zu wissen, wann die Zündung eingeschaltet ist und im Weiteren wie gehabt als Indikator für die Ladespannung angesteuert.

So i assume no movement at all of the clutch slave cylinder.? As far as i can consider with the information you gave us here, one of the following is maybe the case: a)Pressure sensor (maybe hydraulic pump, too) The pressure sensor is faulty and gives wrong values to the transmission controller. That may causes the controller to stop the hydraulic pump even when the pressure is not sufficient. A hint would be the hydraulic oil level-difference between "no pressure" and target pressure. At target pressure the level of hydraulic oil should be lower than around 50% of storage tank. b)Frozen water inside hydraulic oil When there is a reasonable amount of water beside the hydraulic oil (emulsion) it can freeze inside the pipes and prevent actuactors from working. Therefore if possible move the car to a warmer place. c)Hydraulic pipe It's unlikely but not impossible that the hydraulic pipes have moved a bit out of their jacket (see photo #1). Each jacket has a back-pressure valve that prevents draining of hydraulic oil when the pipes are unplugged. There should be only a small gap between the bracket (holding the pipes) and the base with the jackets(see photo #2). When the pipes are not plugged correctly it's possible that the hydraulic pressure does not get to the actuactors. d)Valve of clutch slave cylinder The clutch slave cylinder is controlled with a valve that lets hydraulic oil with pressure frequently into the cylinder to maintain the target position of it when disengaging the clutch (e.g. after pressing brake pedal). That's not most likely as i think such a failure should be recognized by the controller and noted inside its error memory. Possible next step if b) is not possible or there is no improvement in a warmer environment: My advise is to get the cheap used replacement unit (hydraulic pump+accumulator+pressure sensor) you told me via PM that you can buy at a local store. Some tips for exchanging the unit as dismantling is a bit tricky because of few space to handle with your hands: First of all unscrew the internal hexagon (photo #3) that secures the bracket with the hydraulic pipes. You may need some extensions to reach it with the screwdriver. After that take out the bracket carefully with one hand (really: there is no more space;)). Then there are only 2 more screws (photo #4) that hold the metal plate where the whole unit is mounted. Not forgetting the socket for the electric wires. During re-mounting its important to NOT pull the bracket with the hydraulic pipes with the help of the inner hexagon, but to push the bracket by hand while fasten the inner hexagon.

Also quasi eine ID-Nummer um im Bedarfsfall den passenden Schlüsselbart zum Schloss fräsen zu können ohne einen Referenzschlüssel zu haben?

At the moment i am a little bit confused about a)a hydraulic pump that is working "lazy" and silent b)a pressure sensor that detects a pressure within valid range c)actuators (clutch, gear changer) that are not working? I will wait for the result of the short test above. If possible maybe a second person can watch the clutch slave cylinder directly during test? That's something that could be checked by moving the car to a warmer place (garage?) if possible. I know easier said than done. Edit: Another idea just before going to bed - Try to take off the cap from the hydraulic oil storage tank, in case the bleeding hole within the cap is blocked this prevents a vacuum. PS: Any further ideas from the community are appreciated, too;).

Im Eco-Modus läuft er mit Minimalhub und im Nicht-Eco regelt sich der Hub dynamisch nach der geforderten Kühlleistung. Edit: Siehe ausführliche Antwort von A2-D2:TOP:.

Wir waren heute dort. Ich denke BOML wird bald was berichten:D;).

The 4V is only reached when the engine is running. Without running engine the target value is around 3,2V (pump stops after reaching that value). So that's OK. Yes that's possible (thanks for the more suitable word "accumulator";)). Another test might be useful: What happens to value of pressure sensor (20 MVB 4) and value of clutch slave cylinder (2 MVB 2) when you step on the brake pedal. My guess: even with faulty accumulator there should be at least minimal movement of the clutch slave cylinder.

Das ist der Geber für die Tankanzeige.

Added some photos that should help locating the pressure sensor. Big red circle: Hydraulic pressure sensor (G270) Small red circle: Bolt that holds the sensor in place

Mir fiele da höchstens noch Bremsflüssigkeit ein, weiß aber auch nicht wie es da hin kommen könnte. Der Klimakompressor hat keine Magnetkupplung und läuft immer mit. Es verbleibt aber wohl selbst bei Kältemittelleck ein Rest Öl als Notschmierung im System. Dauerhaft sollte man damit aber besser nicht rumfahren.

No additional hints here: The one fault within ESP should not be related to the transmission problem. That's interesting. It seems that the pressure sensor detects a pressure although the hydraulic pump is not working. When this value is more than 2,7V the hydraulic pump will not get activated by the controller as it thinks there is enough pressure. You can double check this if you release the "pressure bomb" half a round to ensure that there is really no pressure inside the hydraulic system (before: look at the level of hydraulic fluid inside the storage tank, when the level is within the rectanglur indicator the pressure should be almost gone). When the value of the pressure sensor remains the same, then the pressure sensor is most likely faulty. Just in case: 6N0 907 597 - Pressure sensor - 99,96€ 6N0 142 425 - Seal Ring - 1,84€ The pressure sensor is located within the "package" consisting of hydraulic pump, fluid storage tank and pressure bomb.

Hmm, und wie kommt da Kältemittel hin? Fände ich zumindest seltsam.

Next: Check error memory of all controllers especially the one for automatic transmission Check value of pressure sensor of hydraulic system (transmission controller -> measurement block 20 value 4) Anything higher than approx. 2,7V would cause the hydraulic pump to not work as the controller thinks there is enough pressure to start. Then maybe the pressure sensor is faulty.

Wo genau war die neongelbe Flüssigkeit? Meinst du mit Hinterwagen vorne oder hinten?

Den kann ich empfehlen, da habe ich vor kurzem erst was bestellt: große Auswahl an verschiedenen Kabelquerschnitten sowie Kabelfarben, für Alle die möglichst originalgetreu nachrüsten möchten:).

First off its important to determine why the hydraulic pump does not work. Just a few days ago someone had a similar problem. In that case it was a malfunctioning relay + regarding fuse that provides the hydraulic pump with power (under the floor in front of the driver seat where the ECU is placed, too). The relay sits on slot no.4 and has the label "373" (right beside the blue 60A fuse). Old part number is "8D0 951 253 A" (new part number to ask for at the dealer would be "4H0 951 253 A"). See also within the attached photo. If you have soldering equipment maybe the relay can be repaired by resoldering the inner contact terminals (cold soldering joints). Take also a look to the fuse of the hydraulic pump. It's a red 20A fuse and placed at the other side of the same relay tray. Summary: Check relay that switches power for hydraulic pump Check 20A fuse for hydraulic pump There is a good chance that there is no need for a basic setting when you fixed the hydraulic pump. Good luck on finding the issue:).

Der Vorschlag wurde von Tho wieder hervorgebracht, er war in den vergangenen Jahren schonmal da, also ohne Spezialisierung.

Ne kleene Sammlung: Lack und Glanz Mit dem A2 um die Welt (z.b. an besonderen Bauwerken) A2 Biotop A2 Farbenspiel ... bitte weitermachen

Die Zielkoordinaten dann bitte per PN.

Wenn du einen Termin vor 9Uhr verabredest, dann könnte das klappen.

Wie war denn die Probefahrt:D?

Ja, war ein entspannter Schraubertag. Die Überholung des Generators war etwas komplizierter als gedacht. Danke an Simon für die Hilfe und den Dremel:TOP:. Ohne den Dremel (Trennscheibe+Fräsbohrer) hätte der alte Schleifer wohl noch einiges mehr an Widerstand geleistet (siehe Bilder). Der generalüberholte Generator (Schleifer+Gehäuse, Laderegler und Kugellager) wandert nun ins Regal und wird evtl. beim nächsten Treffen nochmal getestet. Besten Dank auch an alle Leckereienlieferanten:). Die letzten Reste vom Nachtisch habe ich mit Herrn Knor geteilt. Gleich mal zum Kühlschrank das Ti..... probieren:D. @BOML: Berichte mal bei Gelegenheit ob die Batterieladewarmlampe deiner Kugel nun funktioniert wie sie soll. Falls du mal auf die Schnelle einen Ersatzgenerator brauchst, weisst du jetzt wo Einer ist. Unsere Kugeln haben den gleichen Typ verbaut (140A). @Karat: Deine "vordere linke Ventilverschraubung" befindet sich nun ganz nah in/um Bad Bentheim:janeistklar:.

Ich denke, das kommt ganz auf das verwendete Material an. Aus Metall (welches auch "gedruckt" werden kann) traue ich dem Adapter schon eine gewisse Stabilität zu. Es hat dabei aber prinzipbedingt auch die Eigenschaften eines Gussteiles.

Gibt es Bilder von der Lösung (oder zeigt sie mein Browser nur nicht an)?