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AUA Kaputt (Schmied im Motor)?


Redcreek
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Hallo

 

Erste versuch, hoffe ich erfolgreich bin!

Mein Freund hat einen 1,4 AUA Benziner von 2000 (13,7TKM) mit viel Motorgeräuch. Es ist unabhängig von Temperatur aber (leider) Lastabhängig. Bei Lehrgang und belastet kann man ein deutliches "Knacken" hören. Bei Motorenbremsen gibts kein geräuch.

 

Ich denke das es ist entweder ein Pleuellager oder Kolben/Zylinderschaden.

 

Mit was soll ich anfangen, Zylinderkopf ausbauen oder Getriebe/Ölwanne ausbauen?

 

MFG

Fredrik, Nord Schweden (Hoffe sie kann es überhaubt verstehen :o)

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Willkommen im Forum Fredrik,

 

verstehen kann man es schon. Du kannst auch englisch schreiben wenn du willst.

 

Was ich nicht weiß ist, wie ich dir helfen kann, denn mit der angegeben Beschreibung des Problem weiß ich aktuell nichts anzufangen. Kannst du mehr Informationen dazu geben?

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Hallo

 

Erste versuch, hoffe ich erfolgreich bin!

Mein Freund hat einen 1,4 AUA Benziner von 2000 (13,7TKM) mit viel Motorgeräuch. Es ist unabhängig von Temperatur aber (leider) Lastabhängig. Bei Lehrgang und belastet kann man ein deutliches "Knacken" hören. Bei Motorenbremsen gibts kein geräuch.

 

Ich denke das es ist entweder ein Pleuellager oder Kolben/Zylinderschaden.

 

Mit was soll ich anfangen, Zylinderkopf ausbauen oder Getriebe/Ölwanne ausbauen?

 

MFG

Fredrik, Nord Schweden (Hoffe sie kann es überhaubt verstehen :o)

 

Hej,Frederik

Tyvärr bor jag i Arboga,Västmanland.

Prova www.nordicaudi.com .

De hjälper dig.

Din tysk är bra !

 

mvh

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Guest simon461

Hallo,

sollte es ein Lagerschaden sein sind evtl. bereits Metallspäne im Öl.

Laß doch erst mal das Motoröl ab und schau ob Metallteilchen zu sehen sind.

 

Gruß Simon

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Die Ferndiagnosen sind sicher nett gemeint, aber leider auch wertlos.

 

Den einzigen Rat den ich geben kann, wäre zuerst mal das (warme) Öl abzulassen. Warm deshalb, weil die Späne(wenn vorhanden) unten auf dem Schlick sitzen und dieser bei kaltem Öl nur schwer bis garnicht rauskommt.

Anhand der Farbe/Form der Späne lässt sich evtl. schon mehr erkennen.

 

Gruß

Thomas

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I know that English is understood by the absolute majority of Germans, but I hoped to get more answers by trying it in your language. I'm a avid poster/user of nordicaudi.com (Swedish site), but they have little to say about the A2.

 

Some months ago I did service on the car. When I opened the oil plug I got maximum 1,5 liters of oil out. The oil was warm and showed no traces of particles. The car sounded very bad on idle (knocking) but I never went for a test run beforehand. I therefore thought it would be the hydraulic valve lifters that where faulty. I lifted off the camshaft housing and replaced the lifters I deemed bad (8 of them). The following test run was not nice - the knocking sound was still there. It was then I realized that the knocking was load dependant. Coasting causes no noice at all.

 

The car consumes no oil but runs fairly bad, probably due to a very dirty throttle body (?). Where the oil went is a mystery. We had a fairly extreme winter last year and that may have caused the crank case ventilation to freeze (common where I live).

 

Tonight I'll start demounting the gear box so I can remove the oil pan and have a look at the oil intake and the piston rod bearings. I had a BMW 2002 many years ago that had the same symptoms :). Wish me luck...

 

Regards

Fredrik

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Hejsan,

 

The dirty throttle body does not surprise me and it's not a difficult job to do. However, you've got a different (bigger) problem to deal with first.

 

I had my crank case vent freeze last year. The bottom of the oil-check stick (dipstick) has a seal, and that started to let some oil through. A complete warm up and dry out and it's fine now. I figure all that happened is that the pressure got a bit too much.

We were using the car in -5 and not letting it warm properly several times over a week. I think over time the breather pipe also gets clogged with oil debris. I need to clean mine ...

 

There were no errors logged? No warning lights?

 

It's also 13700mil, right? So 137000km?

 

Let's hear what the (other) guys have to say.

 

Bret

Edited by bret
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Nope, no warning lights this time. Last year I changed timing belt and then the MIL was lit. Reason was that the small upper timing belt tensioner had collapsed, the plastic cover on it was gone and the timing between inlet/outlet camshaft was out by 2 cogs. He was lucky that it didn't break! The inside of the timing belt housing looked like Chernobyl! :D

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  • 2 years later...

I ended up buying the car. I thought I could find a cheap engine from a Polo or Fabia (same engine codes), but a later search at this forum proved otherwise. A good engine for a decent price was not to be found in Sweden so I bought it from a guy in Germany, thanks to persons at this forum. The car is a -00 1,4 AUA, but it's now fitted with a BBY from -04. The "new" engine sounds like... new :-)

The old engine piston in #1 cylinder had severe damages and I think it's because the previous owner never installed a block heater. Our winters can be very cold (down to -30).

I took it out for the first spin tonight and everything works just fine.

I moved over the ignition system, oil pressure sensor, crank case ventilation (complete) and intake manifold (also complete) to do an easy installation (actually it's not an easy job).

The coming Tuesday is TÜV and I think it will pass. Once done, I will use it for my everyday trip to work. Will put in a complete "DEFA" kit the coming autumn.

This forum is a great source of knowledge and I'm most grateful for the help I got from some of you, especially A2-D2.

Much apreciated.

 

Many thanks,

Fredrik, Northern Sweden

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  • 2 months later...

The TÜV procedure was not so easy as I thought...

1st time: Emission problems (CO & HC). I forgot to calibrate the throttle unit after cleaning it. Also forgot to calibrate the "new" EGR valve to the existing ECU....:erstlesen:. Did all of that and replaced spark plugs and air filter (and tightened the plastic air inlet box to the throttle housing...). VCDS was full of interesting messages before calibration.

2nd time: Emission problems (CO & HC again!). A sad day in life!

Plugged in the VCDS and found that the rear O2 sensor was giving a bad reading. No other VCDS messages.

Replaced the O2 sensor.

3rd time: This time at the new Dekra station. It passed!!! The guy said the values was like it from a new car :)

 

My tip to all of you: If you need to change the engine, make sure to unplug the rear O2-sensor wiring before you drop down the front part of the exhaust!

If not, just replace it after because you will pull the cables and destroy it. I did it so you don't have to :o.

 

Next time I will tell you how (not) to replace a front wheel bearing...

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